Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I am regretfully putting my "best car I have ever owned" R32 skyline up forsale. The story goes, I have recently purchased a R32 GTR and have found that trying to keep 3 cars on the road is pretty hard. The GTR has ended up needing alot more attention/money than i first thought. In the past few months the White R32 has developed a coolant leak, I originally thought it was a cracked radiator and have since found that the over flow bottle is over flowing, indicating that pressure is building up in the coolng system "blown head gasket". So instead of eventually getting the funds to fix it I have decided to put it up for sale, and see if I get any interest and possibly a sale!

1992 Nissan Skyline R32 M-spec

Ap engineering Power Fc with new Hand controller

550cc Denso Injectors

3" Dump pipe

High flow cat

Xforce 3" stainless Exhaust

High Flow fuel pump

Front Mount Intercooler

Hpi Alloy Radiator

Greddy Coilovers

JJR adjustable Castor Rods

Whiteline front sway bar

Hicas Lock bar

17x8 Drift teks gloss black

kumho escta xs ku36 tyres (will have to double check size)

Unique auto front brake upgrade adapters

Front, 324mm r34 Gtr DBA heat treated slotted rotor

Rear, DBA Heat Treated slotted rotor

Cusco brake master cylinder stopper

QFM race pads

GTR copy fibre glass front bar

Smoked indicators

GTR headlights

Defi, boost and temp guage

Nardi steering wheel

Blitz turbo timer

Resprayed white by previous owner, originally Gun metal grey.

Probably a few other things i have forgotten.

Tuned by blacktrack, Made 235hp at the rears

Price: $10,000 slightly negoiable.

Yes I realise that you may think its over priced since its got a blown head gasket, BUT this is a very very good example of a R32 skyline. Always get compliments on how tidy it is.

Plates not included in sale.

Pm Me if you have any questions or you would like to view the car!

Located in Newcastle

img0447pr.jpg

img0446jy.jpg

img0445vq.jpg

img0444fp.jpg

img0443nv.jpg

img0442lf.jpg

img0441iy.jpg

img0440ko.jpg

img0439cr.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418504-fs-nsw-white-r32-gtst-m-spec/
Share on other sites

The car starts and runs fine, doesn't blow any funky smoke and no coolant in the oil. Found a small coolant pipe that has split above the starter motor it joins the heater pipe to the block.

  • 2 months later...

Up Forsale again, Head gasket has been replaced, Head was cracked/leak tested, Genuine VRS kit fitted, Genuine Coolant, Nismo Thermostat, New thermostat houseing, New Top and Bottom Ratiator hoses, Gates Racing timing belt, New spark plugs. $12,000 Neg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...