Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So hard to explain! Its the part where the 2 cables join that has the white plastic spring that forms the release for the fuel lid.

Basically just trying to work out how it is mounted as mine is floating around in the boot at the moment. It looks like it clips in somehow but mine stay there so I suspect 'something' is missing.

Let me know if that's makes sense, if not ill take pics.

On mine, the fuel release is screwed in, put I've seen push in types with a spring clip on the end rather than a thread.

24xnncy.jpg

** MEANT TO SAY PLASTIC NUT, NOT SCREW :rolleyes:

The fuel lid release appears to be the only part that keeps the bracket mounted firmly.

24eue85.jpg

If you need more pics let me know.

Edited by Nic_A31

Awesome! That's perfect. Mine is missing the plastic nut and looks like the thread has snapped off.

Is the U12 part mentioned in the parts list a direct replacement for the plastic bit? Might have to see what Nissan are asking for them.

  • 1 year later...

Awesome! That's perfect. Mine is missing the plastic nut and looks like the thread has snapped off.

Is the U12 part mentioned in the parts list a direct replacement for the plastic bit? Might have to see what Nissan are asking for them.

Bump. Can anyone confirm this or does anyone have a plastic release for sale? Need one by next week.

Thanks guys,

Ended up finding one on a Ford Corsair (same shape as a U12 Pintara) in Melton. I was super excited, removed it and took it home only to realise the Pintara/Corsair have a passenger side filler and Cefiro has a drivers side.

This meant the little angled piece was facing the wrong way. The plastic piece can be rotated but it requires grinding out the little stud that holds one of the arms together. I did this, rotated the arm, but it back together and then put a small bolt and nyloc nut through the hole to secure it together.

$20 later and I have a working fuel lid and boot again (took me a while to work out the boot as the safety latch keeps dropping down on its own...)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...