Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, just thought i would upload some photos on my project, still in its very early stages so there will be more photos to come as i progress.

Build Plan

Shell:

Going to strip it right down as its pretty rough and paint underbody black, engine bay and inner shell grey and exterior pearl white, unsure about bodykit yet. Probably get some vented BN front gaurds that i think are 25-30mm wider and a panel beater friend to roll the rear gaurds.

Engine:

RB30 block (currently still in GXE Skyline station wagon), Rebore to 86.5mm, 9.0-1 comp cp pistons, spool conrods (havent yet purchased but are planning to use these), ACL race bearings, probably N1 Oil pump and a crank collar.

R32 rb25de head, mild port and polish (hasnt been done yet as engine still together and running) maybe some 20det vavle springs as iv read they fit in these heads and are better than standard de ones.

Top mount steam pipe manifold, 3inch down pipe, 3inch front pipe with waste gate plumb in, tial wastegate (unsure what size it is yet), 440cc injectors, z32 afm, 300zx ecu chipped and tuned to 380rwhp on 98 with 16 psi (may go aftermarket ecu further along in build) and Garrett gt3582 turbo (was rebuilt less than two years ago and had the gt3582 comp wheel put on, and what looks like is a Air Research exhaust wheel with 0.70a/r) these things i have already purchased in a good priced package, but would like advice on the turbo as im looking at hopefully having 500rwhp at the builds end.

Also the turbo has no back and forward play and spins freely, but still has some side to side play, is this normal? or should i get it checked out as someone said it may need to have oil pressure in it to remove the play.

Front facing plenum (80mm throttle body maybe? would like advice on this as well) and front mount intercooler (want good response and minimum lag if anyone knows what would be the best size for my setup?) and 56mm twin core alloy radiator.

Suspension:

Should be getting a R32 gtr 5stud setup with brakes once i have the money for it, and going to get adjustables, unsure which brand but probably the cheapest that have a reputable brand names on them, unsure on wheels yet, maybe 18" x 10"?

There will be lots of other things along the way i wish to do like projector lights, and i will have to re do all the interior as lots is missing.

Would love to hear lots of advice, suggestions and opinions on my plan, and please remind me of anything i may be missing

Thanks all.

R32 GTS25 Coupe, pretty rough but its still my baby

img0479resizej.jpg

img0481resize.jpg

Engine bay with my awesome home wiring on afm

img0483resize.jpg

GXE s/w skyline engine bay with my awaiting 30 block

img0486resize.jpg

The turbo gear i recently purchased

img0498resizer.jpg

Garrett gt3582 turbo

img0499resize.jpg

img0500resize.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418642-r32-coupe-30det-project/
Share on other sites

I initially thought that since it had a .70a/r it wouldnt be that laggy, but i dont know much about turbos.

Couple of pics of dyno sheet off the turbo when it was on a 25det S13 and an RS-R exhaust i picked up

Dyno sheet, new turbo line is my turbo.

img0517resize.jpg

RS-R exhaust, maybe a old one? dont know much bout these.

img0510resize.jpg

Edited by xmafia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...