Jump to content
SAU Community

Power To Expect From These Mods?

ZRBE

By ZRBE,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
Posted (edited)

Okay about a month ago I bought a 93 r32 gtst type m..

Mods are:

T04e high mount

FMIC

Yellow jacket coil packs

550cc injectors

Walboro in tank fuel pump

Tial waste gate w/screamer

HKS bov (will be putting stock BOV plumbed back shortly)

Mines ECU

Adjustable coilovers

Just want an estimate of kw from the wheels ill be getting? Only a rough estimate obviously. AFTER A TUNE!

Edited by Zrobe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418780-power-to-expect-from-these-mods/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

OK, so the power will be limited by one of three things.

1) The turbo.

2) The injectors.

3) The ECU.

Start with the easy one. Your Mines ECU was a waste of money. It can't be tuned (if the EEPROM has been glued in). If the chip isn't glued in, at least you can convert it to Nistune. But then you can do that with a standard ECU anyway. (And, yes, I assume the Mines ECU was already in there when you bought it and therefore it's not your doing, but nevertheless). Worse, the Mines ECU is not well suited to running in Australia. Intended to run on Japanese 100 octane and tend to be fairly over-advanced. Can ping an engine to death pretty quickly in the wrong circumstances.

The injectors will do no more than 300rwkW, give or take a bit. But that it plenty, and probably a lot more than you'll get out of a TO4e on an RB20 anyway.

I suggest you scan through the RB20 dyno thread and see whether someone else has posted up some results with that engine/turbo combo. The rest of the mod list really doesn't matter except to determine whether the fuel and ignition and so on are good enough for the power level.

ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK, so the power will be limited by one of three things.

1) The turbo.

2) The injectors.

3) The ECU.

Start with the easy one. Your Mines ECU was a waste of money. It can't be tuned (if the EEPROM has been glued in). If the chip isn't glued in, at least you can convert it to Nistune. But then you can do that with a standard ECU anyway. (And, yes, I assume the Mines ECU was already in there when you bought it and therefore it's not your doing, but nevertheless). Worse, the Mines ECU is not well suited to running in Australia. Intended to run on Japanese 100 octane and tend to be fairly over-advanced. Can ping an engine to death pretty quickly in the wrong circumstances.

The injectors will do no more than 300rwkW, give or take a bit. But that it plenty, and probably a lot more than you'll get out of a TO4e on an RB20 anyway.

I suggest you scan through the RB20 dyno thread and see whether someone else has posted up some results with that engine/turbo combo. The rest of the mod list really doesn't matter except to determine whether the fuel and ignition and so on are good enough for the power level.

Mines ECU wasn't glued I had a new chip put in. Yeah bit of lag with that turbo haha.. As long as I'm over about 250 260rwkw ill be stoked.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Depending on what spec T04e it actually is - will depend if you'll get there.

There was something like 30 variants, as they are from the 1970s... So lots of wheels/housing combo's around. I think you'll be struggling to get 260rwkw, and it'll be laggy.

ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Depending on what spec T04e it actually is - will depend if you'll get there.

There was something like 30 variants, as they are from the 1970s... So lots of wheels/housing combo's around. I think you'll be struggling to get 260rwkw, and it'll be laggy.

Yeah I wouldn't have a single clue to what spec it is.. Kicks in at around 3600

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

I suggest getting rid of the turbo and getting one suited for the 2L motor, then get a nistune or an aftermarket ECU as the mine ECU won't be tunable and will probably ping/do all sorts of weird shit as soon as you start putting any decent boost into it, could even pop the motor if it is highly advanced.

I had a mines ECU in a car I bought about 5 years back, the previous owner had retarded the base timing back as far as it went just to stop it pinging, it also ran so rich that it went off the AFR scale when on full load, below 9:1, basically they are just crap and not suited in anyway for what you have.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

there are a thousand T04E variants as stated. not all are bad and plenty of people have had them work without a drama. kicking in at 3600 is fine if thats when it starts to pull hard id be happy.

find out what T04E it is and go from there. hopefully its one of the common ones.

I recommend changing the ECU for a nistune at minimum and you will probably be limited by injectors before anything else.

ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I suggest getting rid of the turbo and getting one suited for the 2L motor, then get a nistune or an aftermarket ECU as the mine ECU won't be tunable and will probably ping/do all sorts of weird shit as soon as you start putting any decent boost into it, could even pop the motor if it is highly advanced.

I had a mines ECU in a car I bought about 5 years back, the previous owner had retarded the base timing back as far as it went just to stop it pinging, it also ran so rich that it went off the AFR scale when on full load, below 9:1, basically they are just crap and not suited in anyway for what you have.

My tuner said it will be tuned to whatever is in the tank.. i said i didnt think that was possible.. Anyway I'm over talking about my ECU, if my tuner has lied well.. I ain't going back...

ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

there are a thousand T04E variants as stated. not all are bad and plenty of people have had them work without a drama. kicking in at 3600 is fine if thats when it starts to pull hard id be happy.

find out what T04E it is and go from there. hopefully its one of the common ones.

I recommend changing the ECU for a nistune at minimum and you will probably be limited by injectors before anything else.

Lol, is there a way by found out what variant is it WITHOUT pulling it apart? Probably a stupid question but I'm here to learn..

ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No factory ECU can tune/trim the fuel on the run, which is what he said he has been told... Or perhaps it was bad describing on his behalf.

What about the chip he put in? Can that make a difference to the pinging.. This is f**ked lol

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

People need to start reading ALL the posts.

OP says Mines ECU chip is not glued in and in fact another chip has been put in there. Therefore it is possible to tune that ECU, either by the shitful 90s method of burning EEPROMS, or by putting in a Nistune board.

/ ECU problem

Turbo still an open issue.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Yeah and read the subsqeuent one where he states it will adjust to whatever fuel is in the tank - that is simply untrue (and this is the part we are talking about).

What about the chip he put in? Can that make a difference to the pinging.. This is f**ked lol

It is a SINGLE tune option. You set it for say 98 octane - it is set for good.

Your current setup does not...

1. Adjust when there is detonation

2. Adjust for other fuel types in the tank

3. Adjust for changes to boost levels

ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It is a SINGLE tune option. You set it for say 98 octane - it is set for good.

Your current setup does not...

1. Adjust when there is detonation

2. Adjust for other fuel types in the tank

3. Adjust for changes to boost levels

Well I've spoken to him again.. He said its no lie? I'm going to get him explain to me properly how he did it.. I'm only taking his word for it and is a family friend.. So I don't see any point in him lying. I'm just going to punch him in the head if my car pings out lol

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Yeah and read the subsqeuent one where he states it will adjust to whatever fuel is in the tank - that is simply untrue (and this is the part we are talking about).

No, you see, I read that as meaning he will tune it to whatever is in the tank. Which is kind of what you have to do, no?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...