Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay about a month ago I bought a 93 r32 gtst type m..

Mods are:

T04e high mount

FMIC

Yellow jacket coil packs

550cc injectors

Walboro in tank fuel pump

Tial waste gate w/screamer

HKS bov (will be putting stock BOV plumbed back shortly)

Mines ECU

Adjustable coilovers

Just want an estimate of kw from the wheels ill be getting? Only a rough estimate obviously. AFTER A TUNE!

Edited by Zrobe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418780-power-to-expect-from-these-mods/
Share on other sites

OK, so the power will be limited by one of three things.

1) The turbo.

2) The injectors.

3) The ECU.

Start with the easy one. Your Mines ECU was a waste of money. It can't be tuned (if the EEPROM has been glued in). If the chip isn't glued in, at least you can convert it to Nistune. But then you can do that with a standard ECU anyway. (And, yes, I assume the Mines ECU was already in there when you bought it and therefore it's not your doing, but nevertheless). Worse, the Mines ECU is not well suited to running in Australia. Intended to run on Japanese 100 octane and tend to be fairly over-advanced. Can ping an engine to death pretty quickly in the wrong circumstances.

The injectors will do no more than 300rwkW, give or take a bit. But that it plenty, and probably a lot more than you'll get out of a TO4e on an RB20 anyway.

I suggest you scan through the RB20 dyno thread and see whether someone else has posted up some results with that engine/turbo combo. The rest of the mod list really doesn't matter except to determine whether the fuel and ignition and so on are good enough for the power level.

OK, so the power will be limited by one of three things.

1) The turbo.

2) The injectors.

3) The ECU.

Start with the easy one. Your Mines ECU was a waste of money. It can't be tuned (if the EEPROM has been glued in). If the chip isn't glued in, at least you can convert it to Nistune. But then you can do that with a standard ECU anyway. (And, yes, I assume the Mines ECU was already in there when you bought it and therefore it's not your doing, but nevertheless). Worse, the Mines ECU is not well suited to running in Australia. Intended to run on Japanese 100 octane and tend to be fairly over-advanced. Can ping an engine to death pretty quickly in the wrong circumstances.

The injectors will do no more than 300rwkW, give or take a bit. But that it plenty, and probably a lot more than you'll get out of a TO4e on an RB20 anyway.

I suggest you scan through the RB20 dyno thread and see whether someone else has posted up some results with that engine/turbo combo. The rest of the mod list really doesn't matter except to determine whether the fuel and ignition and so on are good enough for the power level.

Mines ECU wasn't glued I had a new chip put in. Yeah bit of lag with that turbo haha.. As long as I'm over about 250 260rwkw ill be stoked.

Depending on what spec T04e it actually is - will depend if you'll get there.

There was something like 30 variants, as they are from the 1970s... So lots of wheels/housing combo's around. I think you'll be struggling to get 260rwkw, and it'll be laggy.

Depending on what spec T04e it actually is - will depend if you'll get there.

There was something like 30 variants, as they are from the 1970s... So lots of wheels/housing combo's around. I think you'll be struggling to get 260rwkw, and it'll be laggy.

Yeah I wouldn't have a single clue to what spec it is.. Kicks in at around 3600

I suggest getting rid of the turbo and getting one suited for the 2L motor, then get a nistune or an aftermarket ECU as the mine ECU won't be tunable and will probably ping/do all sorts of weird shit as soon as you start putting any decent boost into it, could even pop the motor if it is highly advanced.

I had a mines ECU in a car I bought about 5 years back, the previous owner had retarded the base timing back as far as it went just to stop it pinging, it also ran so rich that it went off the AFR scale when on full load, below 9:1, basically they are just crap and not suited in anyway for what you have.

there are a thousand T04E variants as stated. not all are bad and plenty of people have had them work without a drama. kicking in at 3600 is fine if thats when it starts to pull hard id be happy.

find out what T04E it is and go from there. hopefully its one of the common ones.

I recommend changing the ECU for a nistune at minimum and you will probably be limited by injectors before anything else.

I suggest getting rid of the turbo and getting one suited for the 2L motor, then get a nistune or an aftermarket ECU as the mine ECU won't be tunable and will probably ping/do all sorts of weird shit as soon as you start putting any decent boost into it, could even pop the motor if it is highly advanced.

I had a mines ECU in a car I bought about 5 years back, the previous owner had retarded the base timing back as far as it went just to stop it pinging, it also ran so rich that it went off the AFR scale when on full load, below 9:1, basically they are just crap and not suited in anyway for what you have.

My tuner said it will be tuned to whatever is in the tank.. i said i didnt think that was possible.. Anyway I'm over talking about my ECU, if my tuner has lied well.. I ain't going back...

there are a thousand T04E variants as stated. not all are bad and plenty of people have had them work without a drama. kicking in at 3600 is fine if thats when it starts to pull hard id be happy.

find out what T04E it is and go from there. hopefully its one of the common ones.

I recommend changing the ECU for a nistune at minimum and you will probably be limited by injectors before anything else.

Lol, is there a way by found out what variant is it WITHOUT pulling it apart? Probably a stupid question but I'm here to learn..

No factory ECU can tune/trim the fuel on the run, which is what he said he has been told... Or perhaps it was bad describing on his behalf.

What about the chip he put in? Can that make a difference to the pinging.. This is f**ked lol

People need to start reading ALL the posts.

OP says Mines ECU chip is not glued in and in fact another chip has been put in there. Therefore it is possible to tune that ECU, either by the shitful 90s method of burning EEPROMS, or by putting in a Nistune board.

/ ECU problem

Turbo still an open issue.

Yeah and read the subsqeuent one where he states it will adjust to whatever fuel is in the tank - that is simply untrue (and this is the part we are talking about).

What about the chip he put in? Can that make a difference to the pinging.. This is f**ked lol

It is a SINGLE tune option. You set it for say 98 octane - it is set for good.

Your current setup does not...

1. Adjust when there is detonation

2. Adjust for other fuel types in the tank

3. Adjust for changes to boost levels

It is a SINGLE tune option. You set it for say 98 octane - it is set for good.

Your current setup does not...

1. Adjust when there is detonation

2. Adjust for other fuel types in the tank

3. Adjust for changes to boost levels

Well I've spoken to him again.. He said its no lie? I'm going to get him explain to me properly how he did it.. I'm only taking his word for it and is a family friend.. So I don't see any point in him lying. I'm just going to punch him in the head if my car pings out lol

Yeah and read the subsqeuent one where he states it will adjust to whatever fuel is in the tank - that is simply untrue (and this is the part we are talking about).

No, you see, I read that as meaning he will tune it to whatever is in the tank. Which is kind of what you have to do, no?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...