Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh man already got an exhaust happing thanks anyways! Any other ideas?

Read the RB25 results thread and also the modifying thread to get a feel for upgrading your car....

The first stage is pretty limited with your injectors, but an ECU and Cooler etc will allow you to raise the boost a rad, thats about all you should need to do for the initial mod :) (Ecu not essential but factory ECU doesnt like boost increase in a lot of cases)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418880-r34-gtt/#findComment-6729517
Share on other sites

rb 20 actuator. for 10psi goodness.

better dump and front pipe. high flow cat.

front mount cooler. all can be had for a total of 500 bucks if you look hard enough.

now with an auto, you will need a stage two shift kit and an oil cooler for the transmission. thats gonna be 650 upwards for all that paid for and fitted.

then its fuel pump, injectors. 300+ bucks

ecu, safc 2 is your cheapest bet. 200 upwards.

then turbo. cheapest is highflowing yours. 880 bucks.

tune on a dyno to set it up. god knows. but all that should see about 220+kw at your wheels. with the auto.

(just going off the same pattern as mine but mine is an r33)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418880-r34-gtt/#findComment-6729532
Share on other sites

HEAPS of good tuners for ECU upgrade, but you need the ECU and a tune, they are not plug in as such.... I have had good dealings with JEM and also DVS JEZ but there are other good names floating around the forums like UNIGROUP and a heap of others, shop around and choose the one you are happy with!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418880-r34-gtt/#findComment-6730000
Share on other sites

Yeh sweet well ima get a fmic first and then ill go after the ecu and a tune. And then go from there! :) keen as!!!

make sure you get advice about a suitable ecu.

you need a piggy back not a full replcement on a 33 auto. not aure about 34.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418880-r34-gtt/#findComment-6730095
Share on other sites

Yeh i just need to look around ive read a couple threads just need to find one that is compatiable with a 34 auto :)

i think you have a seperate ecu for your box that cuts timing when it changes gear. so you should be cool. but double check that.

if you dont the best you can get is a greddy emanage ultimate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418880-r34-gtt/#findComment-6731528
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...