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R33 Help!

ChR33is

By ChR33is,
in Queensland

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ChR33is Enthusiast

ChR33is

Posted
Posted

Ok guys I really need your help.

Im sitting here covered in fuel thinking I had a dead/dieing fuel pump. I just spent 200 on a new one, but this didnt fix my problem.

I think my coils have given up the go. What happen is when I started it today I went for a small drive (hitting boost) as you do and it was fine, I was going to the Beenleigh pet store. Next thing I know I put my foot down, not hard but normal and she just bogged down, lost power then came back lost then back all the way down to a roundabout where I turned to head back home.

Stilling at the lights it was running like shit and when you put the pedal down without being in gear it felt like it was running on 1 cylinder and could smell fuel. After I got past the lights and got upto the Pasific hwy after about 80kph it was fine again and didnt play up till I got it home in cornubia, now ive got a darkish small amount of smoke from my exhaust and as she sits right now she isnt liking idle.

Would anyone have some coils they are not useing if possible to see if it is the coils or has anyone had or seen this issue before?

I am a 3rd year Mechanic so I do have some brains but this has me f**ked now. all lines are good?

The only other thing is my coils have been tapped up by the owner before me so I put a small amount of rape tape over it to make sure no spark was getting lost to the side walls

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mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

boosting on idle means a few issues are going on. firstly it depends on where the boost gauge it is getting it's reading from, as it may simply be an issue with gunk in the boost line resulting in it holding boost in the line. if it reads from the intercooler pipe then it will never see vaccum, but may be seeing positive boost on idle, which means that the timing is WAY out. essentially it has anti-lag going on because the timing is extremely retarded.

if the boost gauge reads from the plenum (stock location), then it should read vaccum at idle (or zero if there is a major leak), but it would be very hard for it to see positive boost at idle as the throttle butterfly is closed and the engine only gets the air it needs to idle from a very small hole in the throttle body, and the IAC and AAC. you would also hear the turbo spooling a bit (depending on intake setup).

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ChR33is Enthusiast

ChR33is

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Posted

AFM I think is f**ked, only shows 0.08vts on my scan tool that used from work, I'm thinking its f**ked, sadly from my supplier there $580 new or 270+gst for a reco, wreckers at coopers are $250

Anyone know a better place?

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89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Yeah... right here.... plenty of people upgrade to Z32 AFM's that have perfectly fine standard ones

OR

Do the tutorial for resoldering the joints inside the unit. If you have a soldering iron and some basic skills will cost you next to nothing. Or if you have a mate that is an auto electrician etc then it will cost you maybe a 6 pack :)

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