Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I'm in need of some advice, so hears the story........

I have a r33 GTR with HKS gt-rs turbos, HKS manifolds, dumps etc. and all supporting mods. On a standard motor internally it made 460hp at 18psi.

Now have a built motor with 264 deg cams, valve springs etc etc. got on the dyno the other day. The car wouldn't make boost. Re routed some vaccum lines and seemed to fix the problem. Then te car was making 22psi and started making less and less boost. Te end result was 350hp at 15psi which is shithouse. Now here's the kicker. The boost gauge and apexi avcr both tea 1.30 kg/cm2 however it was only making 15psi on the dyno. Turning the boost up to 1.70kh/cm2 on the avcr and both the avcr and boost gauge read that but no difference in power.

I have replaced the exhaust going larger thinking it could have been an issue, made it rev freerer but did not fix the issue.

Could this be an issue with vaccum lines run incorrectly? Any other suggestions as to whatnot could be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419404-built-gtr-not-making-power/
Share on other sites

Car is running currently on waste gate with the boost controller turned off and it's reading 1.30 kg/cm2. I believe the adjustable actuators aren't set exactly the same cause in getting a bit of turbo shuffle, but surely that can't be the main issue

Making less and less boost?

I had the same problem, ended up been a split in the intercooler hose that connects to the Twin Turbo pipe, but it was underneath and you couldn't see it

i agree if it was making less and less boost it sounds like you have a leak,

do the "twin turbo pipe mod" to try and eliminate that shuffle

check to BOV's are hooked up correctly i often see the vac/boost reference line swapped around with other lines in the vicinity and they bleed boost like nothing else... on a std gtr its around a 40rwkw loss.

Just compressed air works well, make up a bung for the intake of the turbo and pump 30psi into it. Blowing bong smoke up there just makes the escaping air easier to see but you will hear any leaks just fine.

ill try to pressure test/smoke test it this weekend. As far as vbaccum lines are concerned it is certainly possible that i have my vaccum setup incoreect. ive been searching etc, but cant seem to find a difinitive answer on it all.

i have double checked my vaccum lines etc and they all appear to be as they should. i noticed the other day when the car gets warm it idles at around 1300-1400 rpm, so that to me suggest vaccum leak. however ill check the intercooler piping and go from there

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...