Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, did a quick search but couldn't find what I was after.

Just wondering if anyone has used http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=20128&cat=522&page=1 or http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17225&cat=522&page=1 in their skyline and if so, how they find it for daily driving.

I fried my clutch and am pushing 280rwkw, seen the people propping up NPC but I don't have the time to wait for postage. Just wondering if either of these are remotely streetable clutches after they have bed in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419408-which-of-these-2-clutches/
Share on other sites

If you havent driven a puc clutch before, and need to use the car in traffic, i'd guess you probably wont like those ones.

Also, saying NPC clutch is meaningless since NPC sell more than one type of clutch. You need to be more specific about WHICH NPC clutch. NPC can sell you a puc clutch similar to those ones you linked, and you probably wont like them either. An NPC 10 inch organic will be like driving a stocker and good for 300kw, but probably would last long if you like to launch.

Hey so I ended up going with the xtreme 6 puck. Just thought I'd post to let anyone who is interested in getting one of these know that they are really easy to drive.

I drive the M5 to and from work, in the mornings there is always traffic and it drives almost like a stock clutch, the engagement is harsher but it is by no means a pig to drive, I love it.

  • 2 weeks later...

good to hbear.

the clutch you purchased has a spung centre, this makes life better as it takes the "harshness" out a little.

you can get a NON sprung centre, they are alot more on/off style clutch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...