Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You have Type M front bar and skirts, but your rear spoiler isn't.

I wouldn't consider the spoiler to be either M spec or not. The rounded spoiler is typically categorised as series 1, and the square one series 2. The square spoiler was an option on later series 1 Skylines, but they did away with the round one entirely for series 2, presumably to cut down on production costs. So it's more of just an option really. I don't put it in the same category as the lower front bar and side skirts, which I would consider to be Type M kit, even though I think they were options even for non turbo Skylines.

In some ways I prefer the rounded spoiler, and have often thought of selling my square one and replacing it with the rounded one. I know for a fact that it interferes less with the rear view (looked out the rear mirror in a friend's with round one), and can make the car look lower and meaner sometimes. The only reason I haven't done it is because I'm sure as soon as I did, I would start to miss my old spoiler. Maybe when I get enough money I'll just buy the round one so I can swap whenever I like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...