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bit of news on the car the past 3 weeks its up in damos shed (DJRIFT) having wiring fixed and the manual gearbox rewired we had our ups and downs with the manifold after finding the mild steel manifold i brought pushed the dump pipe across to much so the turbo wouldn't fix and ended up staying with the stainless manifold after dr damo come to the conclusion that it was not the manifold that was at fault but the gasket as i was using a multilayer type that everyone seems to speak so highly of but the layer are held together with small rivets and that was holding the manifold out just to make it leak so i went and got a factory nissan one as directed by damo and the factory one are alot thicker spent the rest of the time pulling the manifold on and off because of stripping the thread on of the head but ended up getting it on and nice and tight and started the car was amazed NO MANIFOLD LEAK :) wiring for the gearbox was done horn and high beams fixed so i can pass pits with it then had a look at the steering as ever since i got it had very heavy steering like there was no power steering after looking it to it more found that from factory the club L laurels have a sporty steering on/off switch in the cab but never seemed to do anything when i flicked it and damo was about to power the unit up that controlled the steering and was like magic steering felt amazing just how it should he then wired it in to the ignition and works perfect now... Soo now its almost there just need new turbo and a tune get rid of that shit ebay one and get the car regoed was think of getting a quick and cheaper tune by fuletech just for now till ive saved up for the new turbo and dyno tune im happy to say its 70% done!!! :)

ohh ok ive never seen a laurel made one what im really looking for is a strut brace that not only goes from tower to tower but braces off the fire wall as well ive seen some before but no idea on where to get them from anyone seen them before

ohhh wow thats a good page thanks for that i have a forward facing plenum so wont have to worry about clearing the throttle cable if s13 fits just hoping i can find one that braces to the firewall that fits..

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

new turbo brought :) kinugawa T67 thanks to discotune :) quickly ripped the other turbo off and test fit the 67 and the front housing is so big its hitting on the rocket cover so a mates going to notch the cover through the week and give it another go next week end i also started the car with out the airflow meter plugged in and car continued to run fine so must be running off the ems map sensor so i wont worry about putting the afm back in and fingers crossed they just never worried about taking it out??

and still waiting on a gate spring but once the turbos on its off to get tuned and rego!!!!!

942920_10151471485326820_225457197_n.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

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    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
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