Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you're an AutoGlym fan and there aren't many detractors, you can firstly use their Super Resin Polish.

If that doesn't remove them, you can try their more abrasive Paint Renovator followed by Super Resin Polish

Meguiar's has their Ultimate Compound followed by their Showcar Glaze 7

Menzerna has a broad spectrum of polish grades.

Have used AutoGlym. It's watery garbage.

Try http://www.poorboysworld.com/.

Depending how how bad the swirl marks are use http://www.poorboysworld.com/professional-polish.htm if they are light or if you need a bit more ommph use the http://www.poorboysworld.com/pro-polish-2.htm followed by the first product I listed. Seal it then wax it. Great stuff that poorboys gear is.

When a product is watery, the emulsion has broken down because the emulsifiers cannot keep the watery component suspended in the oil component or vice versa.

It's likely, that if the product has gone watery, it has endured extended heat - probably even before you bought it.

And the instruction to shake a polish etc, may certainly be not enough to reform the emulsion.

This aspect intrigued me so greatly that I felt compelled at the Meguiar's Tech Night last Thur to ask if their products have a Use-By Date.

You've used that poorboysworld stuff Paul?

What happened was I had parked under tree and it started raining.

Then when I went back to my car it has sap all over it so I went and washed it then noticed afterwards that somehow I'd created swirl and spiderwebs, looks terrible on white aswell..

You've used that poorboysworld stuff Paul?

What happened was I had parked under tree and it started raining.

Then when I went back to my car it has sap all over it so I went and washed it then noticed afterwards that somehow I'd created swirl and spiderwebs, looks terrible on white aswell..

It's all I use mate. If you're in Sydney, feel free to come around and try some.
  • 5 weeks later...

i have been a car detailer for the last 3 years and i find the best product for swirl remover is the poorboys range...... they have a product called SSR (scrath and swirl remover) 2.5 and thats the best one i have found used with a good quality waffle pad and slow speed on the buff...... you can buy the product from http://www.waxit.com.au/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&manufacturer_id=21&Itemid=1

also if your not too keen on using that stuff poorboys also make a product called white diamond....... works wonders if ur car is a light color...... if its dark use black hole........ they are both the same product but one is for light colors and one is for dark........ these are also available from the same website....... if u need anymore help pm me......

Edited by 92r32gts

Hey man thanks for that I got poor boys stuff coming in mail I got the ssr1,exp,polish hope they do the trick haha, do u think I should use a machine buffer? Or can I do it by hand.

Oh we're you located? I'm perth

Regards

Thomas

Edited by Turbo tommy

You need a machine for any decent swirl removal. Can be done by hand but will take forever and your arms will probably fall off after one panel...

I've never tried the Poorboys gear but hear very good things about it. If you have the cash, get a random orbital machine and some decent foam pads, then jump on youtube for how to videos. Junkman2000 has an awesome 5 part tutorial for beginners, very clear and easy to follow, his channel is here: http://www.youtube.com/user/Junkman2000

  • 2 weeks later...

+1 for the poorboys. I use the ssr 2.5 followed by the ssr1 and a random orbital with the orange foam pad for the 2.5 then a white pad for the 1 and let the machine do all the work don't use a lot of pressure. Finish it with the white diamond like 92r32gts said.

You's are mad lads cheers for the help, although it's been raining non stop here in Perth and I can't even clean it haha, I also got a quote from someone to do the job quote was around 900$ for the car I told him to stick it lol

$900 is pretty nuts, that would be a full on top end job. Justified for some cars of course, but you would be better off getting some good gear and learning to do it yourself. Plus, you can make some extra scratch on the side by doing the odd car here and there for friends and family

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...