Jump to content
SAU Community

Stock Recirc Valve Leaking?

HYBRID VL

By HYBRID VL,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

HYBRID VL Community Regular

HYBRID VL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yer cause all i have is a pod filter and exhaust atm.

wanted to get rid of the bov and im about to fit the rest of my 3 inch exhaust system but now i require my licence for work im having 2nd thoughts

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

No, because you are pressurising the entire engine. I just remove the afm, plug the pipe and fill with compressed air to around 20-30psi. The closed exhaust valves usually hold the air back from my experience.

LANDSCRIBBLE Mentor

LANDSCRIBBLE

Posted
Posted

No, because you are pressurising the entire engine. I just remove the afm, plug the pipe and fill with compressed air to around 20-30psi. The closed exhaust valves usually hold the air back from my experience.

I tried this, only my plug was just after the turbo outlet. Air would leak out from the rocker covers or something, would hold bugger all pressure.

If there was a plug at the throttle body aswell as plugging all the hoses to the recirc valve and plenum, etc. Would the BOV still be closed shut and not leak, or because theres no pressure from the plenum being applied to the back of the recirc valve, it would be open slightly (like on idle?) and lose pressure?

Im sure theres a smarter way to explain what i mean but thats all i got lol.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

ok so what about block the BOV up all together i really hate the noise to be honest ive lost my licence before and i now require my licence for work so last thing i want is attention from coppers with noise my car is stock thought has 3 inch exhaust and yer im abit worried about that aswell.

A stock BOV will make almost no noise ASSUMING you have the stock airbox fitted. It sounds like your real issue is a pod filter, etc.

copycutter Experienced

copycutter

Posted
Posted

However I will say that it can easily be heard operating with metal intake and pod, even during partial throttle and lifting slowly off the throttle.

I've noticed this with both my original stock rb25 and my current stock rb26 bov. I can hear it opening slightly at very light throttle loads audibly.

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

However I will say that it can easily be heard operating with metal intake and pod, even during partial throttle and lifting slowly off the throttle.I've noticed this with both my original stock rb25 and my current stock rb26 bov. I can hear it opening slightly at very light throttle loads audibly.

+1 to all he said.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Murray_Calavera
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      No Voltage At Fuel Pump

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...