Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not the best with the electrical side of things but sounds like you should get a new relay and try that they're only $15-$20 for a 30amp horn relay. It should be normally open which means no circuit until the switching wire(from the ECU) triggers it to form the circuit. hook it up the way it's been explained and that'll tell you whether thats the problem. It's now a process of elimintaion so write a list of things to check and cross each one off when you've checked it.

this is what I did in my skyline

scrap all the standard fuel pump wiring and start from scratch go to jaycar (car electronics place) get a 5 pin horn relay, 30amp in line fuse, 25amp positive and negative wire(black and red I only needed a meter of each my battery is in the boot you'll need maybe 5or6 red cable and a meter black) and just tools for the job solder and iron ect

run a wire (25amp red) from the battery (positive) and put the inline 30amp fuse along the way somewhere then conect this wire to pin 30

pin 85 earth out to the body(or negitive on the battery)

pin 86 conect to an ignition only source (key barell, head deck ect)

pin 87 straight to fuel pump positive connection

negitive connection on pump you can ground it out to same place as the relay

this is basically the setup I'm running with a walbro and 2 044 they switch and run beautiful hope this helps

Ok cheers for the info, sounds like this is the way to go. Fingers crossed it solves my problem... cars huh :P

and when you get the relay ask for a wiring harness for it makes it a lot easier it cost me about $50 all up including a new soldering iron. car are a love and hate relationship

this is what I did in my skyline

scrap all the standard fuel pump wiring and start from scratch go to jaycar (car electronics place) get a 5 pin horn relay, 30amp in line fuse, 25amp positive and negative wire(black and red I only needed a meter of each my battery is in the boot you'll need maybe 5or6 red cable and a meter black) and just tools for the job solder and iron ect

run a wire (25amp red) from the battery (positive) and put the inline 30amp fuse along the way somewhere then conect this wire to pin 30

pin 85 earth out to the body(or negitive on the battery)

pin 86 conect to an ignition only source (key barell, head deck ect)

pin 87 straight to fuel pump positive connection

negitive connection on pump you can ground it out to same place as the relay

this is basically the setup I'm running with a walbro and 2 044 they switch and run beautiful hope this helps

yeah thats what im thinking...just hardwire it from scratch...

Correct me if im wrong BUT doesnt blue smoke generally indicate the engine burning excessive oil or oil entering your exhaust e.g blown turbo

Correct.. being second hand I have no idea what condition the turbo/engine is in.. is on the cards to inspect inside

Edited by GTS 221

that's the love of cars mate you need to research look up stuff on google go to the local mechanic shop ask questions. I'm a bricklayer by trade and now try to go everything on my cars even tort myself to aliminium weld to get stuff done. my advise try it yourself if you stuff up you will learn by your mistakes

A quick check of the Commo wiring diagram shows its fuel pump relay is a positive trigger from the ecu, Skyline (pin 18) is negative.

Multi meter will soon sort out the problem and another relay.

Commo also has the oil pressure switch fuel pump safety cut out, so that circuitry should also be investigated.

If you want a legal and safe conversion, you never run a fuel pump without some sort of safety cut out.

85 connect to ign 12v switched

86 connect to pin 18 on the ECU header or ECU fuel pump output

30 is a fused power supply from the battery

87 is wired to the positive side of the pump

This is the correct safe way of doing it.

Edited by RRob

Correct.. being second hand I have no idea what condition the turbo/engine is in.. is on the cards to inspect inside

Are you from Melbourne/did you buy the original RB/VP from a guy from Sydney? If so the car belonged to someone I knew, and wasn't treated very best. Ran on 5 cylinders a lot (bad AFM), never serviced, etc. After the car was written off, he did a few burnouts on the lawn (cold motor). Not trying to upset anyone, but yeah. Worth putting new rings and bearings in at least.

And for the haters - fantastic sleeper. Boring white VP commodore combined with ZUTUTU. I wouldn't do it myself, but it sorta opened my eyes...

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...