Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello to all,
i have made the decision to start stripping my stagea going into mid April,
It is a 2001 S2 RS4S

This is an entire car that I have as my daily and I will be stripping completely, unless somebody is interested in buying it for $11k.

Details as follow:

Manual NEO rb25det @93k km.

everything from centre console to engine to looms, coilovers, exhaust, power fc, downpipe etc etc is available.

the aftermarket goodies i have are:
-Coilovers, custom made from bilstein and cusco. used for about 4000km 24x damper adjustable, Front 13kg/mm Rear 9kg/mm

-HKS high power silent exhaust (SS), comes with highflow cat, and even a straight through mid pipe, which replaces the Cat, and muffler for those who like the sound, and the flames...

-3" split dump

-r34 power fc

-r34gtt rims with 30mm spacers to fit the rear wheels

- has reco, and newly powedercoated rear subframe. (replaced due to the pothole saga for those who remember)

Misc:

-diff still locks up really well, no squeaks or weird noises while driving (all around the car)

-has front dayz bar in pearl white, has marks, rear is a dolphin bar.

-reco front drive shafts, new boots and joints

The bad:

Front quater panels have 2 dings in them from some dipshits opening their doors into them, the roof has some hail damage.

driver power window motor has given up.

the car has been serviced every 5000km with full synthetic oil, 5w 40 nulon oil. the car works 100% and i have looked after it performance wise like a god, has never and will never miss a beat

like every japanese stagea, it has some rust here and there.

I will upload pictures tomorrow

if you guys are interested in either the whole car or parts let me know, either pm me, call me, email me or reply on here.

Email: [email protected]

Ph: 0406168123

Remember: MID APRIL is stripping season, not before, as I need it to get me to work.


Regards

Jean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421169-stripping-stagea-s2-rs4s/
Share on other sites

dibs front bar pending pics and price, possibly power fc (probably still that GTR one if you have it too...) also guessing rest of the car is white? condition of bonnet?

  • 2 weeks later...

ok everyone, this is a rough start, will list whatever else i can think of/ people ask for.

Dash: $150
ClusterSpeedo: $250
Vents: $100 for all
3 middle gauges: $100
air controller unit: $100
Steering wheel: $25
Centre console: i will put on ebay so the highest bidder can take it as there are too many people interested. (ashtray to armrest)
Pedal setup: $150

Engine, loom, ecu, sensors and all pumps, sensors etc incl front diff: $2300 perfect for whole conversion
Gearbox with shifter and transfer case: $800
front shafts: $100 each
rear shafts: $150 each
rear diff (LSD): $300
rear subframe incl hicas, hubs, joints etc: $500 (acid dipped, and powdercoated in black. this is also the reaaaaaaally narrow subframe if you wish to put on the craziest offset)

front and rear brakes, with pads and disks: $200

Stock suspension: $100

Coilovers 24 damper adjustment, f13kg r9kg: $750
neo power fc with handcontroller: $900

Exhaust: Stock, HKS hipower silent with stainless cat, and a middle muffler replacement pipe and decat in one, and a 3" split downpipe: $1000 for all and everything

Body panels:
Bonnet: $100
Front doors: $150 each
rear doors: $150 each
rear glass around boot (with the inbuilt antenna): $150 each
boot: $130
I will take out all the locks from boot, ignition and doors and will put it up as a replacement kit for anyone interested
Spoiler (fibreglass): $80

FRONT DAYZ BAR: will also be listed on ebay for everybody to have a fair go at

side skirts: $150

Xenon front lights with ballasts: Both $400 would benefit from a nice polish
rear lights: $300 for everything, all 4 lights
side white blinkers: $50 pair
front blinkers: $80 pair
front high beams: $100 pair
Grill: $100
left and right guards with some scratches and a dent or 2: $40 each

roof racks: $300

r34 wheels: 4x with tyres and 2x in gun metal grey with no tyres $400


Everything else, just ask me as i have no clue what other main parts i may have missed

Edited by Bronx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...