Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got some superpro subframe collars which Ive been meaning to put in the stagea. All accounts seem to say its a super easy job, but Ive found nothing step-by-step to give me a heads up.

Assuming Ive already got the car raised up:

Should I put any support/jack under the differential? Just enough to take the weight off the subframe?

Should I unbolt 1 bushing at a time? Will that be enough sag to slip the collar in?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421723-tips-for-subframe-collar-install/
Share on other sites

Do the front, or the back, then swap. 2 bolts in at a time means it won't fall down. Diff is fairly well attached to the centre of the car by the tailshaft, so it's kind of restrained anyway. Put a jack under it so you can control how far stuff moves and you'll be fine. It's a quick and easy job.

Whether you have to lower the subframe down off the chassis pins depends on how you're setting the subframe up.... drift, drag or neutral.

All good now. No cutting needed, but only just. For anyone's future reference, it helps to have 3 jacks. 1 under the diff, one next to each front bushing. It's easier to control the frame that way. Had to drop the exhaust to get clearance, and make sure tubes or wires are being strained.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
×
×
  • Create New...