Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Didn't know it was available outside of Nismo JP, traders in Japan won't send, or if they do they require a min. 6x 1L purchase.

The LSD is supposed to come with 2x 1L Nismo LSD oil, but they don't seem to supply it with the oil outside of Japan.

Will chase it up locally, to see if I can get it, thanks.

I was aware of the generic Motul version, however I'm led to believe they are not 100% the same.

I assuming Nismo has a specific blend of friction modifiers etc to suit the LSD for an OEM feel i.e. minimal chatter.

I used the Castrol to good effect.

Add some Penrite friction modifier if you get too much chatter

Thanks, might end up being easier to source.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Didn't know it was available outside of Nismo JP, traders in Japan won't send, or if they do they require a min. 6x 1L purchase.

The LSD is supposed to come with 2x 1L Nismo LSD oil, but they don't seem to supply it with the oil outside of Japan.

Will chase it up locally, to see if I can get it, thanks.

I was aware of the generic Motul version, however I'm led to believe they are not 100% the same.

I assuming Nismo has a specific blend of friction modifiers etc to suit the LSD for an OEM feel i.e. minimal chatter.

Thanks, might end up being easier to source.

Yes the Nismo stuff although also made by Motul is a higher spec. In NZ Motul is available through a number of parts shops and the Nismo version is also available from Nissan dealers.

This appears to be the Aussie distributor - the website lists stockists:

http://www.linkauto.com.au/index_page.html

Unsurprisingly no listed stockists in WA.

On further research it's apparently the OEM fluid on later model R35 LSDs (and recommended on earlier), so I have no doubt I'll get my hands on it one way or another.

Thanks :)

  • 1 month later...

LOL turns out Motul is changing it's Australian distributor.

Both the current & future Australian distributors are dream boats that decided to jerk me & the retailer sourcing it around, and decided that it's all to hard to do their job.

LOL turns out Motul is changing it's Australian distributor.

Both the current & future Australian distributors are dream boats that decided to jerk me & the retailer sourcing it around, and decided that it's all to hard to do their job.

I buy the Nismo stuff from Nissan. Since its specified for the GTR you should be able to get it from your nearest Nissan dealer as well.

I buy the Nismo stuff from Nissan. Since its specified for the GTR you should be able to get it from your nearest Nissan dealer as well.

Tried that, Nissan (over here anyway) doesn't stock/carry it and referred me to the Motul local dealer, to which there are none in my state.

I can buy it from a US Nissan dealer over ebay, but I'll get stung 50% of the price in freight.

I've settled for Just Jap who seem to have it on hand (waiting for confirmation), however I'm getting stung a bit in freight and higher item costs so I'll be $50 worse off :(

LOL @ swear filter, I'll let you guess what dream boat means

If you scroll down this listing you will find the diff oil for NZ$58 a litre - what prices have you had so far? I will email my contact @ Cockram Nissan to get an up to date price.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/oil-additives/auction-608121833.htm

Too hard as it can't be air freighted, but that's significantly cheaper than all prices I've come across.

Decided to go with regular Motul comp fluid, as it's far easy & cheaper to get my hands on, and others I've spoken to have been happy with it's performance.

If it doesn't work out I'll try something else at the service interval.

Thanks for the help.

  • 1 year later...

Reviving an old thread. The consensus seems to be the Quafie front center is the overall favourite.

Although we haven't had any input from anyone using either of the 2 Cusco front diff options:

the RS model: http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-type-rs-lsd-diff-front-nissan-bnr32-bcnr33-bnr34.html

the MZ model: http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-type-mz-lsd-front-limited-slip-differential-r32-r33-r34-gt-r.html

If anyone has one of these or knows somebody with one could you please weigh in? the Quafie unit's are a fair bit more expensive from Just Jap ($700 more) and I only just sent and email to Piggaz's contact - Thanks for the contact btw Paul

My engine is out and it is not going back in with a stock front diff! Help me make a decision please! I would love a helical from Quaife but I don't think I can justify the extra $$ for it. Thanks

Quaife is a known winner, just read a few threads here to understand.

Im currently fitting a RS Cusco 1 way in ours, front diff casing needed some grinding to creat enough clearance to slip it in as its wider where the clutch pack body is.

Do it while the sump is off so you can clean the alloy shavings out easily.

Type Cusco RS centers are suppose to run a 80w140 oil in the rear and lighter 80w90 oil for front diffs.

In my case im using a Motul Gear competition full synthetic 75w140 for the front diff due to power loadings on the gears.

For Cusco RS centers the oil must contain a friction modifier.....

Edited by GTRPSI

Quaife is a known winner, just read a few threads here to understand.

Im currently fitting a RS Cusco 1 way in ours, front diff casing needed some grinding to creat enough clearance to slip it in as its wider where the clutch pack body is.

Do it while the sump is off so you can clean the alloy shavings out easily.

Type Cusco RS centers are suppose to run a 80w140 oil in the rear and lighter 80w90 oil for front diffs.

In my case im using a Motul Gear competition full synthetic 75w140 for the front diff due to power loadings on the gears.

For Cusco RS centers the oil must contain a friction modifier.....

Sounds like a bit of a headache. Is your car far away from being finished? I'd love some feedback on how it drives once it's all sorted

Bottom end done, headwork half way there.

Fitting a LSD is not a headache, its just a bit of grinding to clearance so the unit can fit in.

Even removing the stock one is a bit of a tight fit, aftermarket ones having a larger body need some more room to slip in.

Edited by GTRPSI

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...