Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK. Those urethane bushes you have in there are probably not adjustable. There is some eccentric adjustment available at the inner end but not a lot, as you've found already. The arm itself may well have been bent. You'll need to try to work out if the toe angle in your report means that the arm is longer than it needs to be or shorter than it needs to be. Longer would be a problem, because it would be difficult to bend the arm to make it longer.....it would be far more likely to become shorter than it needed to be from being hit against a kerb.

The tie rod mount on the knuckle, mentioned above by boostn, is the cast bit visible to the left of your arm in the photo. These are cast, so tend not to bend before the flimsy bent metal stuff attached to them (or normal HICAS tie rods in the case of HICAS rear ends) bends. But it is possible. Many people hit these things against kerbs, replace the obviously bent stuff and leave the hub carrying damage that they couldn't/didn't see.

It's not the HICAS tie rod ends...because you don't have HICAS you don't even have the tie rods. That arm you show in your photo is the "toe control arm" - serves the same function as the HICAS tie rod. It connects to the same hole on the hub (just with the HICAS ball joint pressed out and a normal bush in there instead).

It might be difficult to see if the cast part there is bent in any way. It's hard to see a few mm of deflection when you don't have a bent one and a straight one on the bench side by side.

As to the straightness of the toe control arm itself, you might have to take it off and sit it on the bench next to the one from the other side, and see if you can notice any difference between them. It would also be good if you can get the wheel aligners to tell you what that toe measurement is in millimetres, rather than the degrees they quoted. Most people think of toe measurements in mm, rather than angle. The magnitude of the "problem" may be better understood if it were in units we expect.

According to this I have 1.1mm toe in.

ww.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/355913-toe-adjustment/

I will check the ride heights on each side first then have a good look around there when I get the chance.

If I take the toe arms off will I have to get another alignment? What if I chuck on some aftermarket toe arms?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
    • Yeah the rule of thumb with an LS is 7psi per 1000rpm. That is decidedly not enough at 6800rpm. I mainly looked for the scenarios where knock started to be picked up and it was later in the session when things were hotter, and oil was thinner, and the pressure was lower than it should be. (i.e very horrible). I am hoping with thicker oil (I was running Penrite ten tenths 10-40, the manual specifies 10-30) that does not leak that it's much improved at that time!!! I am using Project Mu Club Racer CR pads. I'm also using the Project Mu 335C fluid. The symptoms imply that it was fluid that boiled, but no bubbles seemed pretty weird to me when I bled it today. I want to try Castrol SRF as it has a much higher wet temp but, well, I have new Project Mu fluid lol... so I should at least use that. The pedal on track was really noticable. It went from basically normal feeling to instantly near-floor. The car did pull up as before, it was just very much nearly at the floor before the brakes engaged. At that point I pretty much decided the day was very done, it did *kinda* come back during that very slow cooldown lap into the pits. Felt perfectly fine driving home.
    • f**king around with the bro
×
×
  • Create New...