Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20Det Low Oil Pressure Help×

040122

By 040122,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

040122 Collaborator

040122

Posted
Posted

K my 32's oil pressure gauge is showing low pressure. It should be on bout 3kg/cm2 at normal driving with out reviving too hard but its dropped to 2kg/cm2 according to the gauge. The motor has a lite ticking sound too now and this morning when i started it , it sounded like a wrx so i guess it was missing but that corrected itself during the drive.

Has anyone got ideas? I have a few of my own but other opinions would be good cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422424-rb20det-low-oil-pressure-help%C3%97/
Share on other sites
Plattsy Grand Master

Plattsy

Posted
Posted

get a 20 dollar oil presure guage and 50 dollar sandwich plate and install it........

the standard gauge is a piece of shit and over 20 years old. my 33 had the exact same issue... made me think everything was going wrong...

put in cheap set of gauges and bobs your uncle. car is actually fine.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

But also ask the obvious questions too like:

- When was it last serviced?

- What oil and filter do you use?

I only use Castrol Edge 10W60 and I was unable to kill a 20 bottom end. Also, only use Nissan filters. There is a big difference in the pressure drop and performance of many cheap aftermarket-repalcemetn filters. I always got better pressure with the Nissan filters.

I am pretty sure the std oil pressure gauge is just a Bosch unit so are cheap to replace. I put a tee into the block and run the std oil pressure gauge to the dash and the second tapping is for my aftermarket oil pressure sensor that is hooked up to my data logger.

040122 Collaborator

040122

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mmm gauges r a good start but the motor has developed a noise too n it wasn't firing all pistons this morning. Hopefully all coincidence. Its not blowing smoke or burning oil. And important not sure how u install an oil pressure gauge,

040122 Collaborator

040122

Posted
  • Author
Posted

But also ask the obvious questions too like:

- When was it last serviced?

- What oil and filter do you use?

I only use Castrol Edge 10W60 and I was unable to kill a 20 bottom end. Also, only use Nissan filters. There is a big difference in the pressure drop and performance of many cheap aftermarket-repalcemetn filters. I always got better pressure with the Nissan filters.

I am pretty sure the std oil pressure gauge is just a Bosch unit so are cheap to replace. I put a tee into the block and run the std oil pressure gauge to the dash and the second tapping is for my aftermarket oil pressure sensor that is hooked up to my data logger.

its due for next oil change next month. Last oil i used was 10w40 penrite full synthetic with ryco filter. Used to run 5w30 Castrol but the mechanic said i should use 10w. Car definitely felt more responsive with 5w30 though

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Bin Ryco oil filter and only use genuine Nissan. Put 10W-60 Castrol Edge in it and I am pretty sure that your problems will go away. Wouldnt hurt to put some diesel oil in it for 500kms then dump it and put good oil in.

Basically diesel oil has a high level of detergeants in it so can help clean gunk and build up out of the oil. Noisey lifter coul dbe just a sign of things getting abit glunked up in there. I used to put a high detergeant flush through my oil system every 12-18 months. Never seemed to hurt and helped keep the engine clean. Probably overkill but since I did track work and got the oil pretty damn hot...i used to just do it as housekeeping

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

I ran 500ml auto trans fluid in mine for 10 minutes before dumping the oil last time..

Now THAT cleans it good.

and agreed.. Catrol 10w60 is what I use.

Can you tell where abouts in the engine the ticking is coming from?

mine has a lifter noise at first cold start..

goes away soon after though.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Take the car to someone that knows the tricks of the old girls. Otherwise some mechanics may try to tell you the sky is falling for something rather simple. As others have said there is nothing obvious that would suggest a miss and tapping noise is a problem.

Thyere is a 30-50% chance its just a tired coil pack and the engine is a high km engine that hasnt always had good servicing and oil put through it. How long have you had it and what is the history of the car.

The gooid news is that they eat up high kms, take a hell of a lot of abuse and you dont harm the average engine.

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

Bin Ryco oil filter and only use genuine Nissan. Put 10W-60 Castrol Edge in it and I am pretty sure that your problems will go away. Wouldnt hurt to put some diesel oil in it for 500kms then dump it and put good oil in.

Theres nothing wrong with the ryco filters and there alot of people that use them with no problems.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I concur with all of the above. The failure of the factory gauge is a well known common one. Mine has only just started playing up in the same way. Apparently there is a solder joint in them that needs a rework and they come back, but I haven't had mine out to have a look and prove that.

I would argue that Ryco filters are fine. Have always used them on every car I've ever had and never had cause to doubt them. Nissan ones may in fact be better, but there's nothing wrong with Ryco.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

If you are not having problems with them then I guess there is no reason to change. I use std Nissan as after about 3,000kms there is always a reduction in oil pressure in my engine when using the Ryco and the other Autobarn etc filters. With the std Nissan the oil pressure barely changes to the point that I only really change them every 10,000kms. I have tried the K&N and other exotic $20 jobbies and cant tell the difference between Nissan OE.

The NIssan filters are also cheaper...thats important to me :)

040122 Collaborator

040122

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Coils are splitfire with ngk plugs. In any case the car might just be a tepremental female because i made this thread this morning and beside the gauge, everything felt good when i drove it at lunch this arvo. The test will be how it acts tomorrow morning.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • Kinkstaah
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...