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Have you tried to re-align the crank sensor while someone cranks it? Just loosen the bolt and move it around, see if it fires. The flywheel pickup could be in a slightly different spot due to crank differences...

Was the engine from an auto or manual, and what's yours?

I had a look through the V35/350z manuals, all three sensors should have 12v on pin one (measured to body earth), and earth to pin 3, (check the continuity with a meter.) The centre pin (2) is the sensor wire back to the ecu, check all these for continuity back to the ecu plug. Pin 13 for crank, pin 33 is bank 1 cam sensor, and pin 14 bank 2 Cam.

If they are all fine there is another fault. Either one of the sensors is stuffed or it isn't picking up a good signal. (or the ecu is toast) You will need to get an oscilloscope on the signal and compare it to the service manual diagram. Make sure you check the Crank signal plate on the back of the flywheel/flex plate for chipping or damage.

I assume you are using your original ecu?

I had a look through the V35/350z manuals, all three sensors should have 12v on pin one (measured to body earth), and earth to pin 3, (check the continuity with a meter.) The centre pin (2) is the sensor wire back to the ecu, check all these for continuity back to the ecu plug. Pin 13 for crank, pin 33 is bank 1 cam sensor, and pin 14 bank 2 Cam.

If they are all fine there is another fault. Either one of the sensors is stuffed or it isn't picking up a good signal. (or the ecu is toast) You will need to get an oscilloscope on the signal and compare it to the service manual diagram. Make sure you check the Crank signal plate on the back of the flywheel/flex plate for chipping or damage.

I assume you are using your original ecu?

I have 6MT v35, engine from 350z 6MT, both 2003.

I have tried two different clutches, both brand new, one in there now is exedy GTM twin plate

I have tried both Haltech plug and play and stock ECU

Tomorrow im going in to the shop where the car is, and testing all the things you say. I dont have a oscilloscope, i paid someone with one to check all my wiring the first time and he ended up saying the ecu drivers where not seeing a correct cam pattern.

I have pics when engine was being built and the cams are in the right order (my mate has a revup and his engine builder messed up his cam order - had the exhaust and intake cams mixed), i think the non rev up cams are different as only the intake cams have the notches at the end the sensors pick up and in my pics when engine was built i can see the notches are the intake ones..

And when you checked the notches on the intake cams they were clean and clear of muck? Are these new cams? Perhaps the notches were done wrong if you have never used the cams...

Also try disconnecting the Crankshaft sensor plug, it 'should' still start without it, if the camshaft sensors are working ok.

Do you have the sensor's the right way around? I am fairly sure they are the same anyway...

And when you checked the notches on the intake cams they were clean and clear of muck? Are these new cams? Perhaps the notches were done wrong if you have never used the cams...

Also try disconnecting the Crankshaft sensor plug, it 'should' still start without it, if the camshaft sensors are working ok.

Do you have the sensor's the right way around? I am fairly sure they are the same anyway...

Cams were 2000miles old (Brian Cowler Stage 2) from a working engine

The bank 1 and bank 2 cams are different in length and each side cams look different, one has notches and one is just a round disc with no notches. They were all cleaned.

So with your issue of needing the sensor moved around for it to start, if you unplugged it, then it would start without it? but are you saying with it plugged in but in the wrong position, it would not start ? So its better off receiving no signal Vs the wrong signal??

Re sensors, only the crank angle sensor will fit in the trans, drivers side (bank 1) senor is straight, the bank 2 passenger is 45 degree angle sensor.

I have 3 sets, one all brand new, OEM Nissan, the others from the engine rebuilt, and the other set from my original engine.. I have tried them in all different combination

I hope all these things im doing to try will get it going...

Im getting a map hopefull from Mr Ritz from his Haltech plug and pro (i sent him a email) he has similar setup to me and same HKS kit.

I will try the utec again, and my mate has the same kit and utec so im getting his tune today

Only thing left after all these tests if it wont go is timing.. apparently you can only see what it is if you take off front timing cover and thats a pain :/

It's not too bad to get the front timing cover off, but the crank pulley has to be dropped to slide it over. You could just remove the fiberglass front to get you some room to move. Remember there are bolts from inside the sump to remove also. (I think the whole sump is supposed to be removed first generally but the front cover can be removed, it's just tight around the crank.)

If you have the workshop manual, it isn't a hard task to reset all the cam chains, once turned over the chain markings don't line up with the marks on the pulleys though.

Scotty, when the crankshaft sensor is taken out, the car will not start... and it shouldn't. Nathan, since you said you have swap another clutch. Did you check the position of the clutch/flywheel with the cam angle? The reason why I'm going back to workshop this weekend because, my Mechanic called me and asked me about that. I have not idea what he is talking about. He said it will affect all the angle sensing from the 3 sensor. Let's hope this is the problem and we all can drive our nice V.

Scotty, when the crankshaft sensor is taken out, the car will not start... and it shouldn't. Nathan, since you said you have swap another clutch. Did you check the position of the clutch/flywheel with the cam angle? The reason why I'm going back to workshop this weekend because, my Mechanic called me and asked me about that. I have not idea what he is talking about. He said it will affect all the angle sensing from the 3 sensor. Let's hope this is the problem and we all can drive our nice V.

Hey elton, lol the engine was acid bathed and then painted :)

When installing the flywheel there is a locating mark in between the flywheel bolts, that mark HAS to line up with the locating pin on the back of the engine (where the flywheel bolts to) Then you clutch needs to go on a specific way to match up to the flywheel, mine had blue arrows on flywheel and clutch so you couldnt get it wrong..

This pic is close enough to show what im talking about

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldatadiy/DIY~G~C45827~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/138181779/138629620/138629625/138629629/34853741/100411974/34853743/34854017/34854562/160580380/188717324/154364928

Why was the small cam chain position changed before the main chain was fitted, it looks like the small chains aren't aligned properly Nate. The top pic looks correct, the second one the chains have moved...

Why was the small cam chain position changed before the main chain was fitted, it looks like the small chains aren't aligned properly Nate. The top pic looks correct, the second one the chains have moved...

yeah i see that, looks like it was changed after the main one... I have no idea... I dont speak the mechanic anymore, he ripped me off and caused HUGE issues, stole from me,... My mate with another 350z Rev up also got him to rebuild his engine, had spun bearing, quoted $2000 to fix, was given invoice for $4000 (not even forged, just one new piston or rod i think and bearings) and installed the cams wrong, dont know who is going to pay for that but that was another $1000 in labour for a different mechanic to fix...

MY car did initially start with stock ecu + old sensors + other competition clutch + utec with 750cc map (i have 800cc injectors) but it only ran for 1.30mins... then stalled (rpm slowly just died)

I will check tomorrow but before all the new parts only #3 spark plug lead would fire every rotation, the others just once.. all coil packs were put in #3 lead and all fired everytime but the other leads did not... changed cam angle sensor over and i got all 6 to fire with the coil packs out but once all back in and crank over, it went back to just #3 working.. so thats why everyone is like WTF ...

Edited by R6n350GT

Nathan,

This is what I found, and highly suspect this is my problem. Did you put your flywheel in this way?

See in the diagram there the bolt holes are there is a little dowel pin inbetween two of the bolt holes? on the back of the flywheel there is a matching mark, my flywheel has the mark aligned with the dowel pin on the back of the engine. But awesome diagram if your not sure, easier then taking the trans off to check !!!

I will double check but i did triple check when installing it.

we are pretty sure we didn't align this dowel pin when we put the flywheel in. So fingers crossed this is the issue for me.

Yep i did the exact same thing too.. took it out, put it back in and it started.. for 2 mins.. then not again since.. even $5000 later :/

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