Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

So yeah, my car is like 30 000 km overdue for a major service, I should do it aye? LOL... (last night I cut off the A/C belt with a pair of scissors, it chewed itself up so bad it was flapping about)

Been surfing around the net and it seems there's a decent major kit on eBay for $300 delivered, comes with:

  • OEM belt
  • OEM idler pulley
  • OEM tension pulley
  • OEM pulley spring
  • OEM crank seal
  • OEM cam seals
  • GMB Water Pump

Link: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-TIMING-BELT-SERVICE-KIT-SKYLINE-GTR-RB26-DETT-R32-R33-R34-N1-WATER-PUMP-/221052509700?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3377c19e04

For $300 it's a good deal, but what gets me is the GMB water pump.. it's made in Japan and I've searched it up, only a few people on the Toyota Camry forums have had issues but no one on this forum seems to have issues (according to the search).

Is it too good to be true for the price?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422835-major-service-gmb-water-pumps/
Share on other sites

well then...just had a look at kudos motorsports, their water pump itself is ~250$ ? SO I'd err on the side of caution and say that this deal on ebay is too good to be true...unless all the belts etc really do cost peanuts.

personally I would only ever go genuine Nissan when it comes to water pumps. I had one of those 'protex' pumps which lasted only 20,000kms before it started to leak. the last thing you wanna go doing is replacing the timing belt again due to a shitty water pump.

quote me all you like; the original question was regarding gmb water pumps, i gave the opinion that they will go the distance. . have used them many times over twenty five years and i ask for that brand when im at my local parts store

as for the belts im not sure about AS I HAVNT USED THEM BEFORE

understand?

There is a different water pump, i think rb 20 has one hole different (very important).

Also...

I have been advised not to use an N1 pump as they dont pump well at lower revs, they are for racing.

At high revs they have less cavitation than standard.

Ps: the pump is made in Japan, that would be good enough for me, no question.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

There is a different water pump, i think rb 20 has one hole different (very important).

Also...

I have been advised not to use an N1 pump as they dont pump well at lower revs, they are for racing.

At high revs they have less cavitation than standard.

Ps: the pump is made in Japan, that would be good enough for me, no question.

There is a different water pump, i think rb 20 has one hole different (very important).

Also...

I have been advised not to use an N1 pump as they dont pump well at lower revs, they are for racing.

At high revs they have less cavitation than standard.

Ps: the pump is made in Japan, that would be good enough for me, no question.

^^^ this! good quality japanese pumps. . not cheap n nasty taiwanese knockoffs

Generic water pumps generally make great blenders. No idea how good or bad the GMB one in question is though.

What about this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220472911339

Only $90~ more (including shipping) for a proper R33 GTST kit with a genuine water pump and is from an Australian seller that sponsors SAU.

Edited by BuuBox

It's only $9 per 10,000km... :)

Would you mind posting a picture of the GMB impeller when you get the pump? It's very difficult to find a picture of one online and it'd be interesting to compare between the GMB and the genuine Nissan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...