Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

So yeah, my car is like 30 000 km overdue for a major service, I should do it aye? LOL... (last night I cut off the A/C belt with a pair of scissors, it chewed itself up so bad it was flapping about)

Been surfing around the net and it seems there's a decent major kit on eBay for $300 delivered, comes with:

  • OEM belt
  • OEM idler pulley
  • OEM tension pulley
  • OEM pulley spring
  • OEM crank seal
  • OEM cam seals
  • GMB Water Pump

Link: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-TIMING-BELT-SERVICE-KIT-SKYLINE-GTR-RB26-DETT-R32-R33-R34-N1-WATER-PUMP-/221052509700?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3377c19e04

For $300 it's a good deal, but what gets me is the GMB water pump.. it's made in Japan and I've searched it up, only a few people on the Toyota Camry forums have had issues but no one on this forum seems to have issues (according to the search).

Is it too good to be true for the price?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422835-major-service-gmb-water-pumps/
Share on other sites

well then...just had a look at kudos motorsports, their water pump itself is ~250$ ? SO I'd err on the side of caution and say that this deal on ebay is too good to be true...unless all the belts etc really do cost peanuts.

personally I would only ever go genuine Nissan when it comes to water pumps. I had one of those 'protex' pumps which lasted only 20,000kms before it started to leak. the last thing you wanna go doing is replacing the timing belt again due to a shitty water pump.

quote me all you like; the original question was regarding gmb water pumps, i gave the opinion that they will go the distance. . have used them many times over twenty five years and i ask for that brand when im at my local parts store

as for the belts im not sure about AS I HAVNT USED THEM BEFORE

understand?

There is a different water pump, i think rb 20 has one hole different (very important).

Also...

I have been advised not to use an N1 pump as they dont pump well at lower revs, they are for racing.

At high revs they have less cavitation than standard.

Ps: the pump is made in Japan, that would be good enough for me, no question.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

There is a different water pump, i think rb 20 has one hole different (very important).

Also...

I have been advised not to use an N1 pump as they dont pump well at lower revs, they are for racing.

At high revs they have less cavitation than standard.

Ps: the pump is made in Japan, that would be good enough for me, no question.

There is a different water pump, i think rb 20 has one hole different (very important).

Also...

I have been advised not to use an N1 pump as they dont pump well at lower revs, they are for racing.

At high revs they have less cavitation than standard.

Ps: the pump is made in Japan, that would be good enough for me, no question.

^^^ this! good quality japanese pumps. . not cheap n nasty taiwanese knockoffs

Generic water pumps generally make great blenders. No idea how good or bad the GMB one in question is though.

What about this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220472911339

Only $90~ more (including shipping) for a proper R33 GTST kit with a genuine water pump and is from an Australian seller that sponsors SAU.

Edited by BuuBox

It's only $9 per 10,000km... :)

Would you mind posting a picture of the GMB impeller when you get the pump? It's very difficult to find a picture of one online and it'd be interesting to compare between the GMB and the genuine Nissan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...