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My Idea/attempt At The "my Rb30 Doesnt Have A Machined Tensioner Flat Area".

Ramius83

By Ramius83,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

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Being in the USA, RB30 blocks are hard as hell to get here. I found one, ordered it, freighted it, and received it. All looked great, even had the original hone marks. All was great until the timing cover was removed. My block didn't have the machined flat area for the relocated tensioner. So I came up with this idea. The plate sits where the old tensioner was located and goes across to the flat surface that the timing cover sits on. Those two surfaces are flat and level with each other. The plate bolts down to the block with the original tensioner hole and 6mm stud hole, and two new holes were drilled and tapped where the a/c compressor bolts are. The tensioner bolts down to a large washer that sits on the aluminum plate. The tensioner was machined down the thickness of the washer and the aluminum plate. See anything that might go wrong with this?

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Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

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Looks great Erik, well done.

What A/C compressor mount are you using? Did you use the RB26 mount or totally refrabricate one? I can't work out from the photos why you didn't use the original one? All you need to do is machine off the two upper bolt holes so it bolts direct to the block of the RB30 as opposed to the head on the RB26.

Just curious!

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Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

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Actually, that is the external oil pump bracket from Ross. Good eye though.....

The S14 this RB30 is going into won't have A/C for now, and it has electric power steering pump from an MR2. I am actually looking into a small A/C compressor that I can fab a bracket where the power steering pump use to mount. But that is another day/week/month/year lol.

Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

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I did make a "copy" from a piece of cardboard lol. I shouldn't need to make another one. Unless I get another block in the future and it doesn't have the machined area.

Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

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hey thats much better than how I did it. Great job!!!! I hope you traced around it and saved a copy for future reference.

BTW, how did you do it?

Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

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am i missing something but what are you doing about a water pump?

The water pump still bolts to where it goes. Look at the bracket I made. It has indentions for the water pump mounting ears. The template I made for the bracket had the water pump mounted to the block so I knew where it went and the curves/mounts it had. When I'm at the shop again, I'll take a pic of it with the water pump on.

urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
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Compare to how you did it mine is extremely agricultural hahaha. I started with a piece of 5 or 6mm thick flat bar. drilled a hole in it to suit the stud. and progressivly ground it it down till it sat in the hole and gave the idler a flat surface to sit on. pretty time consuming really. You should scan your jig on an a4 piece of paper and attach it to SAU. that way people in future can print it out and trace it onto steel or what ever

Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

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I just may do that. With it being aluminum, it really didn't take me long to do, thankfully. It's 1/4" thick. I'll get to work in the next few days and trace it out and upload it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

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Well, everything worked out as planned. The second tensioner is exactly dead straight with the other timing belt components. Here are some pictures. I'll be attempting to scan in the template I made into a PDF file. It has total size measurements so when you print it, you can blow it up or shrink it until it measures right.

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Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

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Here is the template that I promised everyone. It is in PDF Adobe Acrobat format. Just print it out. Then measure from side to side and top to bottom and compare it to my measurements. If they are off, just blow it up or shrink it until your measurements equal mine. The bolts holes don't need to be super accurate as the bolt head and washers will take care of the slack. The holes I have marked are dead on with my template. The two larger holes need to be big enough for a M10 bolt to go through, and the three smaller holes need to be big enough for a M6 bolt to go through.

I actually have the one I have pictures of for sale if anyone would like to purchase it. I made another copy and I am using it.

I'll let it go for $60 USD shipped to you in Australia, England, etc......Just shoot me a PM or post on here.

2083_001.pdf

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