Jump to content
SAU Community

Trust TD-06 Different Specs

lukits01

By lukits01,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

rob77 Veteran

rob77

Posted
Posted

Nope, I am selling it now. If i had another $10k, I'd do the suspension, buy some decent 18" rubber, fit a high mount manifold, bigger straight fit injectors, put in a lightweight flywheel and get it re-tuned... and I'm sure I'd make a peak power well over 400hp and a much higher average power than I have no. Fact of the matter is, I've spent well over what I should have in the first place and its time to sell it and move on. :) My next project will be a lightweight, chuckable, go-kart type car.... sure it wont have the same straight line performance, but it'll be extremely light and hug corners :)

rob77 Veteran

rob77

Posted
Posted
I know most people here use HKS GT25s but Im about to go down a different path and try the TRUST route  :sly:  

I was wondering if anyone here can tell me how different specs of TD06 would perform on a RB25DET, in particular the Compressor housing specs between the 17C, 20G, and 25G

The exhaust housing is pretty straight forward: bigger, more power, more lag

What about the the differences between TD06, TD06S, TD06SH and TD06SL2?

The TD06-17C are usually used on high powered SR20s but anyone every tried them on RB25s?

I think you'd find the 17c exhaust housing a bit too small for a rb25det, as most people have said 20g and 25g are the way to go. I'd like to see a t67-25g on a rb25det, HPI had one on a sr20det along with cams it made good power earlier and peaked quite high (wasnt quite 300rwkw but wasnt far off I think).

DCIEVE Mentor

DCIEVE

Posted
Posted

yes the early td06's appear to have rather nasty looking comp wheels as well (diesel style comp wheels) rather than the later 20g, 25g's etc which seem to have comp wheels which are very similat to gt garret wheels

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
I think you'd find the 17c exhaust housing a bit too small for a rb25det, as most people have said 20g and 25g are the way to go.

Doesnt the 17C, 20G, 25G refer to the compressor wheel?

Busters results were damn impressive from the TD05-25g with 10cm housing and cams, i think you will find his old car had a TD06-20g though i dont know what size exh housing.... my recommendation, buy DJ Lethals TD06-25G kit (Ex Buster) get the same cams that Buster had and enjoy +300rwkws, you may even be able to get the ECU for this setup is its probably floating around somewhere.

GTR STI Community Regular

GTR STI

Posted
Posted

The 20G....25G.....refer to the exhaust housing.

But bare in mind, you can get a 20 or 25G exhaust housing in both internal and external configuration.....for efficiency and performance an external waste gate is the way to go, but the cost will be more. The TD06 pictured at the beginning of this tread have internal wastegates.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
The 20G....25G.....refer to the exhaust housing.

But bare in mind, you can get a 20 or 25G exhaust housing in both internal and external configuration.....for efficiency and performance an external waste gate is the way to go, but the cost will be more. The TD06 pictured at the beginning of this tread have internal wastegates.

Are you sure that 20g etc refers to the exhaust housing. The TD06 SL2-20G 8cm you have for sale, your saying that the 20G refers to the exhaust housing?

I dont think thats right. Doesnt the 8cm refers to the exhaust housing, and the 20G refers to the compressor wheel? As for the turbine, i have always assumed they were the same wheel, and that power outputs varied based on the size exhaust housing used (8cm, 10cm etc etc) and the compressor wheel used (17C, 25G etc)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Something's broken.
    • PranK
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By PranK · Posted

      It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • ShezzDogs
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By ShezzDogs · Posted

      Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...