Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

 

has anyone ever heard the noise that would be made from a car that is driving with virtually no automatic transmission oil? Is it a really loud churning noise?cheers

 

No oil = no running. Needs gearbox oil to go.

what if your driving and you have a hole in the box and its leaking and leaking, im sure itll run for a bit, i want to know for that minute or however long it will run what noise it will make. If anyone has had first hand experience with this let me know

I know that you'd be an idiot to drive with a smashed and leaking box and that it will be slipping etc etc, my question is simple, if anyone has heard that noise and can describe it to me could you please do so

cheers

No. I've tried to drive a car with little to no transmission fluid. It didn't make any funny noises or smoke, it just didn't move until I put enough in it.

If your transmission is making noise then there is definitely something wrong.

Low to no trans fluid -

It will make a grindy noise, it will feel like a slipping clutch, it will stop, it will not start if it is empty or too low. It will not change through gears.

It will NOT blow smoke.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...