Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah he showed me coz the reason I wanted to get it looked at was because my knock sensor on the dc controller was hitting 60 the other day so that's the main reason I wanted to check the tune he showed me where it was leaning out and hel fix it all up two of my other mates had a power run today and told them that there tunes were both spot on

60 knock isn't that high, RB knock sensors reads all sorts of bullshit LOL... if it's 60 on full load up a steep hill etc.. I wouldn't worry too much

What about 90 knock on full boost at about 6000rpm? Not sure why its happening, I cant find my maps on my computer to look at it now. Not sure if spend money or just pull timing my self.

That needs to be checked...

Pull timing and boost out of it

friend of mine took 3 different rb30 heads down there to get them rebuilt and prepped for an upgraded set of cams they stated and i quote

"the heads are cracked beyond repair"

at which point they refused to return them stating the damaged heads had been disposed of.

the last head that was taken to them was a known good head and the second only had minor wear if there were and cracks they could have been welded i am unsure of the condition of the first

WTF? please tell me you got something back from them?

What about 90 knock on full boost at about 6000rpm? Not sure why its happening, I cant find my maps on my computer to look at it now. Not sure if spend money or just pull timing my self.

do a map trace on the controller and see what cell it is landing on, then map that back to the ignition table.. sometimes your car loads into cells that never get loaded up on dynos..... most tuners will trim off 5 degrees on heavy load cells that are not in use just in case you hit them, but there are some tuners (1 from my experience) that disregard that and up a hill you fall into those cells and pow.. 100+ knock..

I'm going to setup my car soon and self tune it, I trust no tuner out there that would do a good tune and not rip you off. There are great tuners out there, but fuark me.. their prices are just crazy. Considering most of them just re use a map from a car with similar mods and setup the injectors & latency to suit then just spent time trimming the ignition and injection tables and make $1500 from you.

Fair enough I understand it's a business and it's intellectual property..

I just guess from 2 bad experiences with "paying" tuners to tune something I learnt myself in over a year.

I'm going to setup my car soon and self tune it, I trust no tuner out there that would do a good tune and not rip you off. There are great tuners out there, but fuark me.. their prices are just crazy. Considering most of them just re use a map from a car with similar mods and setup the injectors & latency to suit then just spent time trimming the ignition and injection tables and make $1500 from you.

Fair enough I understand it's a business and it's intellectual property..

I just guess from 2 bad experiences with "paying" tuners to tune something I learnt myself in over a year.

+1 well said

Ive got everything I need to tune my car, its just the knowledge and the location to do it. How do you determine what is the best fuel map for your car? The timing part, I assume you'd just start low and go a little more, checking knock in each cell but its not always about raising timing until it knocks. If I knew enough, I'd tune my self but for now, its risky. I can spend my time editing the tune I have to make it a little safer, but starting from scratch is a different story for me :( Wish I had my own private track.

WTF? please tell me you got something back from them?

friend has since dropped the issue and has refused to chase advan this was his first experience with modifying a car and it has turned him sour on the whole idea

he has since slid his project into a garage and bought a commodore

Alright, everyone will have different experiences with different workshops, and hence when these kinds of threads pop up we deliberately don't let them continue.

Let me remind EVERYONE that it is against the forum rules to post negative feedback against ANY business or entity on the forums here. Threats and attempts have been made to pursue litigation against the owner of the forum for defamatory posts, and we cannot allow that to happen.

The forums are provided to you to use free of charge, but it does cost money to keep it going. A successful litigation against the owner leads to loss of funds towards running the forums. Loss of funds leads to no more forum... Geddit?

Please read THIS: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/228238-read-this-whos-the-best-tunerworkshopresprayerdetaileretc/

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...