Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 88
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey a quick question to anyone reading this with adj cam gears (OS Giken in particular) how many degrees is each index mark on the slider?

ie. 1 point (index) = 2degres???????

oh and a dummy one to make sure, turning anti-clockwise on the adjustments is retarding while clockwise is advancing? - just to be sure!

Oh and while pulling it all apart i found the cause for my inlet being so tight! i just wonder now whether that was the main problem with the GTR cams for not holding idle!

Hehe,

My car has been sitting too long for my tastes and I've been getting lots of static from the wife about how "everytime you buy something, that car doesn't run afterwards." I'll go back to the RB26 cams in a bit, but I think I'll get some adj. cam gears and get an ECU remap first.

-Matt

haha Matt i know your pain, but i have a nagging girlfriend instead of a wife.. so i just threaten to dump her if she says anything bad about my car!

But like you my car has sat too long and i cant afford a retune or PFC at the moment.

oh and the reason it was stiff, was actually due to the camshaft clamps being on the opposite way around, as in they needed to be turned 180deg. they were in the right order, just not the right direction!

the worst part is i put them back exactly they way they were on in the first place! so some idiot once put them on the wrong way, anyway they are smooth like butter now, and im sure that the GTR cams would probably WORK!!!!!! but i have already promised them to someone and spent the money on adj cam gears!

So looks like ill get my car running and give the GTR cam thing another shot sometime in the future.

So good luck to all those that are still going ahead with it. you will prob find it works regardless of you ECU type.

just some thoughts on the topic (i'm trying to think of anything to try to alleviate this problem)...

some guy on the forums put NA rb20 cams into his car (232deg and 7.8mm lift) and he had no problems with the install from memory. so the altered duration isn't the problem. what i don't understand is that its happening for these particular cams when normal aftermarket cams work in the rb20??

out of curiosity, what spark plug gap are you guys running? maybe it needs 1.1mm gap to work properly? or if you are running 1.1mm already (most aren't) then you might need to go to 0.8mm... hmmm?? yeah you're right i'm probably talking about unrelated shit!

my cams should be here by the end of the week...! its gunna work!

Waz.

well im beggining to think that maybe the reason mine wouldnt hold idle was due to the increased effort needed to turn the engine as the inlet cam was very stiff to turn.

If it wasnt that then it has to be the standard ECU.

I'm pretty sure all my cam brackets went on the way they came off and I did not see any markings on them (are there any?) The strange thing is that when we first started the car after the install of the RB26 cams it actually DID idle. On the drive home is when it started to freak out and during that time I popped off an intercooler pipe. I'm thinking it's the ECU. I still don't understand how Tomei, HKS, etc.. are able to run if the RB26's won't. I mean afterall the RB26 cams are really quite similar with higher lift.

If someone with the standard ECU gets this to work, please enlighten us.

-Matt

what about chaning just the inlet cam? maybe it will idel? or just the exhaust cam?

if Tomei cams work there is no reason the rb26 cams shouldn't work there is something being overlooked here...

Couldn't agree more -

all down to one thing I reckon - Managment, or the lack of. A programmable computer is a 'must have' I think

Chris

will be interesting to see......

I think the issue everyone was having is that there is more air for every revolution (having greater lift on the GTR cams) being pumped through the engine,and the stock computer can't work it out.

Would be intersting to see if the programming would still work at WOT, as it would be relying on the airflow meter signal to determine how much air is going in..........

Will be good to find out if it is the case

will be interesting to see......

I think the issue everyone was having is that there is more air for every revolution (having greater lift on the GTR cams) being pumped through the engine,and the stock computer can't work it out.  

Would be intersting to see if the programming would still work at WOT, as it would be relying on the airflow meter signal to determine how much air is going in..........

Will be good to find out if it is the case

hmmm the air still needs to come from somewhere and its through the afm so i am assumeing the thing should still run....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...