Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I’m currently looking for a 32 gtr to use as a track only car, mainly for drags and go to whoa

The thing is i only have access to a 1/8mile track

So i want to set the car up as much as possible for this, so huge horsepower and high top end isn’t really needed im guessing? Instead acceleration and midrange is more important.

Im going to start buying parts for when i find the right car.

The car will be completly stripped and running semi slicks

Im thinking the following parts

  • -9s or -5s??
  • Tomei Poncams Type B
  • Tomei cam gears
  • 1000cc injectors
  • Walbro e85 fuel pump
  • Power fc
  • Profec II boost controller

Any other ideas??

If you are doing all the head / cam work then go Garrett -5's.

But being only a 1/8 mile track... You might be better off with Garrett -9's...

How much power you want to push?

And are you only going to run 1/8 mile tracks?

To be honest im not getting caught up in the i want X amount of power.

Im looking at the quickest 1/8th mile times possiable.

Yer i will only be doing 1/8th mile for a few years yet.

Also unsure of suspension yet

To be honest im not getting caught up in the i want X amount of power.

Im looking at the quickest 1/8th mile times possiable.

Yer i will only be doing 1/8th mile for a few years yet.

In addition to you mods, just go with a 3" or 3.5" exhaust.

Also unsure of suspension yet

Nur33 runs with a full Ikeya Formula Suspension setup, with his RH8 / RH9 R32 GTR Drag car.

I think any decent full adjustable Japanese / German etc brand will do you.

Just got to set it up right.

Thanks mate

re exhaust, im thinking to go no exhust, find a decent dump that sperates for a long distance the just exit out the side. havent found a dump yet tho

Yer im going to ask the guy with RH8 what he recommends, of course im not thinking as big a build as him but cant hurt to ask.

Its really turbos im a bit up in the air about

Edited by Adz2332

Thanks mate

re exhaust, im thinking to go no exhust, find a decent dump that sperates for a long distance the just exit out the side. havent found a dump yet tho

Yeah, just make custom twin side pipes.

img00089200905191725.jpg

img00092200905201200.jpg

img00094200905201205.jpg

Yer im going to ask the guy with RH8 what he recommends, of course im not thinking as big a build as him but cant hurt to ask.

Its really turbos im a bit up in the air about

Your not racing far... 200 metres...

You'd be better off with a full response turbo setup.

Go Garrett -7's or stick to the Garrett -9's just for more top end when needed.

The owner is from GTR UK forum.

http://imageshack.us/g/39/img00084200905191125.jpg/

the reason for doing it its cos i always wanted to do it....and for weight saving

the main reason though was weight saving cos the exhaust the car had was very heavy
now..the x-thing is there for the a/f ratio sensor for tuning...to get the gases for both sides

Not too sure.

Diametre wise, it would at least be a 3".

Or if you can find a Kakimoto Racing Hyper Ful Mega N1 Dual Exhaust and just use the down and front pipes and custom to exit to the side.

Image1.jpg

Image2.jpg

For a full drag car why u even considering twins?

6262, 4.3 diff ratios, factory suspension high and soft, good ECU with launch control, and some bullshit good tyres!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...