Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just been thinking of using multiple throttle GTR plenum. However Im not sure if the runners for a R34 and 33 are the same. I could do away with cutting the runners by machining a adapter plate using RB26 N 25 gaskets as templates. However using an adapter would mean that i have to cut and re weld the water outleet so it doesnt crush the VCT solenoid. Using 34 runners would be good because i still have the same injector sitting angle. The downside is that i cant find any 34 lower runners. So it brings the question, are the 33 and 34 runners the same especially on the way injectors sit and fuel rail mounts. From looking at a few pics they dont look the same but when you look at the gaskets, they have the same part number.

Are the manifold o rings also 14mm


IMAG0376.jpg

Do the 33 injectors sit the same way as 34 (o -rings and sitting angle) but atleast i know i can top put on top feed injectors on the 33 intake manifold given that i change the rail aswell. I just dont want to downgrade from an intake plenum which was better.

I dropped by Jaycar and saw a cheap set of 6000K HID bulbs, thought it would be good to restore the xenon lights so i got to task.Had to take my front bumper off to access the wires that were cut during compliance to stop the ballasts from supply energy to the light plug.

It was just a matter of connecting wires back together

IMAG0683_zps8a4dc282.jpg

IMAG0682_zpsa16e6ea0.jpg

But then after hours of trying to figure out what was wrong with the LHS light i swapped the ballasts and the light still worked indicating the supply cable within the light is Kaput. Not sure if i really want to open the inside of the light as its the one i use. Might just get a connector plug it onto the ballast and feed it through the side of the housing to the light

Yeh man, it's easy. Take off the 5 spring clips on the housing, and undo the two little screws on the park-light side. Remove all the plastic bits that you can, tuck all the wiring inside the housing, and pre-heat oven to 100 degrees, then headlight in for 8 minutes or so. Keep an eye on it in the oven and nothing will go wrong. Then use a screw driver to pry the lens away from the housing. If you need to pull too hard then put it back in the oven for another couple of minutes. Just do it slowly and you'll be sweet.

To put it back together, just reverse the process :thumbsup:

Whilst im waiting for the tuner to get back, I got a hi flow turbo for a steal price, as im not willing to stay at 180kw while i source out options for the turbo ill use. So the hi flow will be the super sub while I find a good contender to use. Have gone through so many compressor maps I can probably tell you the name of the turbo without even looking :P.

Im tempted to bolt up the hi flow but without tune it will probably run really bad. As for the injectors if i manage to loan a Nistune consult cable ill be able to change the injector size and latency so i can still drive it (My Daily) to the tuners otherwise ill just resort to getting it towed to the tuner.

IMAG0708_zps15fb0c98.jpg

IMAG0714_zpsd366afb8.jpg

IMAG0716_zps8d421b3c.jpg

meant as in drive it for a few weeks till the tuner is back, however I wasnt sure about driving it offboost on the day i take the car.Its certainly something i will experiment doing while i have the stocker but with the hills in my area. It will be quite interesting.

  • 1 month later...

Thats good so you just gotta transfer your stuff from the 33.Except for a few things that wont work with Neos hopefully wont be much.

Very nice man good to see you a doing a thread on the build... Thumbs up!!

I see you learnt the hard way about spending a little extra on stand alone ecu's huh? Good work keep it up

Very nice man good to see you a doing a thread on the build... Thumbs up!!

I see you learnt the hard way about spending a little extra on stand alone ecu's huh? Good work keep it up

I donno if I will be building mine like yours but chasing around the same figure.If it pops I'll get another stockie and repeat and transfer. If I had known from the start I would have got a standalone only a few extra dollars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...