Jump to content
SAU Community

Retrieving Dropped Parts From Tight Spaces :(

Guest

By Guest,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

Hey, was working in my 32r today, and stupidly I dropped a bolt down my front dimister air vent which required me to remove the front vents up really close to the front widescreen to get the bolt out.

I removed the Plastic vent and 3 of the 4 stupid metal clips fell down the vent thing,

Anyone have any tricks into getting these clips out so they don't rattle around when I drive?

Possibly without removing the whole dash LOL.

Ohh and will overfilled(touches the cap prior to first startup) attessa fluid cause the 4wd light I turn on and the 4wd system to stick in 2wd mode? My attessa fluid is like fully topped up LoL

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

HAHAAHA, vaccum!

will probably give my vents a good cleaning aswell :)

awww, was hoping it was the problem, would it atleast make the 4wd light stay on constantly?
i havent driven hard enough for the torque gauge move :( or my 4wd is gone :( i can still hear the pump start and stop when pressurized though...

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Checked fuses ?

G Sensor ok ?

Torque gauge should move on rapid acceleration. You don't need to reach high speed, but you do need to accelerate quickly.

Just a quick take off should move it to '10'

I have a working G if you want to eliminate that.

Normally lack of fluid is the general cause but that's obviously not your problem :)

If it is none of the above then it starts getting complicated.

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

Fuse in engine bay and cabin is all good and G sensor looks to be good (clear on the tube thing)

i can hear the attessa pump run for a few seconds after the fuel pump, and i can also hear the pump slowing down as it gets pressurized and the pressure switch activates.

I might try bleeding attessa since I have the extra fluid in there anyways,

Previous owner had it towed to get brakes fixed after they seized, would that have damaged attessa if it was towed incorrectly? Theoretically shouldn't since the 32 runs rwd most the time anyways?

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Will search around for more info.

I know there is a few threads on here and I know I found a diagram of the system I posted on SAU somewhere :wacko:

Found it on GTROC I think.

Rims/tyre sizes same all way round?

Check ABS sensors in the front - may have been affected when brakes seized.

RosieR34 Grand Master

RosieR34

Posted
Posted

Hahahhaha Never thought of that... Will keep that in mind

You will probably kill anything electrical in your engine bay (ECU or whatever). Vacuums produce CRAZY amount of static electricity which kills computer in a heartbeat - I'm guessing cars have computers of sort in them as well, so I wouldn't be risking it lol

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

Will search around for more info.

I know there is a few threads on here and I know I found a diagram of the system I posted on SAU somewhere :wacko:

Found it on GTROC I think.

Rims/tyre sizes same all way round?

Check ABS sensors in the front - may have been affected when brakes seized.

Yea ive been searching around for a fix, but majority of the guys who fix them just have low attessa fluid...

my 4WD light is on as soon as i put the key into th "ON" position and stays like that until its off.

Wheels are same 235/45/17 maxxis tyres all round wth same offset and width.

is there something i should look for specifically when checking the ABS sensor?

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

>>>> DIY vid I've seen on the internet. Not the same vehicle but the same process/location.

I found one post on SAU that mentioned over filling can be an issue. I'm not so sure but may as well take it down to the correct level.

Would definitely bleed too.

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

>>>> DIY vid I've seen on the internet. Not the same vehicle but the same process/location.

I found one post on SAU that mentioned over filling can be an issue. I'm not so sure but may as well take it down to the correct level.

Would definitely bleed too.

Thanks! but is there any signs of it actually being the problem physically? shouldnt pulling a code from the LED be a good diagnosis aswell :)

yea, should do the more obvious and easy fixes before the hard ones :)

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Over the top -> "You will probably kill anything electrical in your engine bay (ECU or whatever). Vacuums produce CRAZY amount of static electricity which kills computer in a heartbeat - I'm guessing cars have computers of sort in them as well, so I wouldn't be risking it"

Yes - static electricity on exposed motherboard - not good.

ECU is in the passenger kick panel. Issue is up on top of the dash.

People Vacuum their car carpets frequently and close to the ECU - no issues

ECU and electrical's are covered and earthed. Not only that there is a kick panel as well. Vacuum electricals are incased in unit..

All wiring under the dash is also covered.

Use a good Vacuum with that crevice attachment (or modify to suit). Clips will suck out very easy.

Bolt/nut not so sure but the claw was a good idea.

I used my Vacuum to suck the dust of the Fan in my laptop - no issue.

However, if you do crack open a PC it's a good idea to use an earthing strap (just in case). But then again your actually working with an un covered mother board.

Not a covered and earthed ECU and all other electrical components in the car.

Ps. I'm not sure how you lost the clips. I've had those vents out 2 or 3 times

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

FARKKKKKKKKKKKKKK Dropped another thing down a tight space,

This time, after ripping off tape to cover up the turbo inlet with masking tape,
i put the roll of tape on top of the engine, and rolled slightly, knocking down the inlet pipe allen key bolt
straight into the turbo outlet pipe....

the turbo spins freely and the bolts probably at the bottom of the compressor housing.... but i 100% saw it drop down the outlet pipe of the turbo.

anyone have ideas if a magnet will work? thinking of buying this one online?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Auto-Repair-Flexible-Slender-Metal-Magnet-Pick-up-Tool-/350656861594?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a4c7159a

will the magnet be strong enough? lesson definitely learnt - always tape the outlet pipes before taping the inlet pipes on the turbo >.<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ARB26
      Stagea 260RS seats

      By ARB26 · Posted

      Hey Nismo, any chance in the world you still have these seats?
    • Lithium
      Forced Performance Hta Turbos

      By Lithium · Posted

      I'd say closer to OG GTX3582R, just smaller trim - so 59mm inducer/82mm exducer as opposed to 62/82 for the first gen GTX3582R. Yeah EFRs were boss, the EFR8474 is still an absolute beast and it perplexes me that people still go to things like Turbosmart/Garrett etc when the results people are getting with those are pretty unremarkable compared to what you could get with a turbo available well before those options came out.  DriftSquid (I think) "upgraded" from an EFR9174 to a Turbosmart turbo and promised a comparison video - and kinda shuffled awkwardly and did a bit of diversion from the fact that they didn't get any improvement going to the currently massively hyped brand of turbo from a turbo that was a bit of a frankenstein that had been well superceded in it's own range before the Turbosmart unit he put on there even came out. I suspect the EFR would outperform most Xonas for what a lot of less-insane RB owners would go for, in the 400-600kw range but the Xonas are looking hard to beat up to maybe in the mid 700kw range at this stage- basically where EFRs don't really reach, and before the Precision turbos take over.  What the Xonas do well in the "EFR range" is be easier to package etc, and work very well if a divided housing doesn't suit your application.  
    • WMDC35
      Tomei gasket

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      Are you sure the gasket is blown? What are the issues? Thermocure is the only flush I've seen do anything with rust, very impressed with that, Prestone, rust will be by the pool having a cigarette.  
    • MBS206
      Tomei gasket

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And since the flush you have a blown head gasket? Have you lifted the head off yet?
    • GTSBoy
      Hr34 fuel pump not turning on

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The answer is to get a hold of the wiring diagram, work out what voltage is supposed to be where, when, and then work out why it is not there, then. I can't speak to the HR34 stuff, because I have never paid any attention to the NAs. There is a possibility that the turbo diagram will help, but it could also be different - depending on whether there is an FPCM on the NAs.
×
×
  • Create New...