Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

new to posting on the whole sau forum,

just wanted to know if anyone has had any experience with clean injection on ebay

http://myworld.ebay.com.au/clean-injection?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

was looking at some of the deals they have with the rail, injectors and the fpr.

Couldn't find much with the search button and seen so many people get flamed for not using it haha

Also i was looking at getting one of the "freddy" plenums to go with it, just want to know if this will bolt onto the"freddy"

and last haha there is so many freddys on ebay, just want to know if there is a specific ebay store or online store that sells one that hopefully wont leak etc

I also know that alot of people will say stay with the stock plenum and just get side feed etc but i want to clean up the piping (front facing) and in the process if these injectors are go to go then why not grab a this
to go with it http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-RB25DET-rb25-gts-t-gts-s-r34-r33-rail-1000cc-turbo-Fuel-Injectors-/181071313809?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a28b0fb91


Once again sorry if this has been covered and if someone could like me that would be great!

Thanks guys!

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425463-clean-injection-ebay/
Share on other sites

ok.

dont normally post in threads like this, but...

i actually purchased a set on christmas 2009.

1000cc drop inn for 32gtr.

had twin gtrs at 18psi, haltech runing 95oct and had 280rwkw.

they idled nice down low.

the bloke i dealt with responded very quickly to emails(went outside of ebay due to no listing and low stock).

these emails would have been xmas eve in the us, so was very surprised.

im very happy with the product.

3 years, and no problems with the injectors.

car should be running again soon, with alot more power, so will update this when i know results.

hope this helps.

cheers, luke.

  • 9 months later...

I purchased one of their kits (clean-injection) for my 240sx with rb25 engine about 2 years ago. Came with the sard regulator that looked pretty genuine to me. I purchased the bosch 750cc injector with fuel rail to fit my factory intake manifold. Actually really pleased with the quality. My car is making a happy 625whp on e85 no issues at all. Idle is rock solid. I plan on upgrading my turbo to go for 900hp soon...will be contacting them to see if they have some bosch 1000cc injectors to do the job.

Thanks heaps for the replies guys! What about the Intake plenum, any ideas on which ones are safe and which ones are a no go?

Freddy plenum is just a bad idea left, right and centre. If you must have an FFP then at least get a Plasmaman so you can retain the longer runners and not throw away free torque.

If you must have a Freddy, then find a good one (good luck) and buy it. Once you have it, then organise injectors and rail for it, so you can see/feel/measure the injector seats, mounting locations and so on and provide those details to whoever you buy the fuel gear from.

Haha, genuine Sard copy fuel reg with every purchace. :P

I could nearly match their injector prices I think, once you add shipping. I guess the issue is, what happens if you have to return something...

Scotty, would you have a price for 4 injectors for a Nissan GTIR? looking for anything above 550cc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...