Diy Alignment Questions

[No Crust Racing]

I won't know for a few weeks as I've got a clutch to do, a cage to fit, a new seat mount to make, and a splitter to make and fit before I can get to the track =\

Keep tabs on my build thread though, I always talk results in there.

[Sir Lord Van Von Vader'ham]

What do people recommend for caster alignment for semis? Is it better to have more caster and less camber or the other way around? and how much is too much?

Thanks

[Duncan]

yep more castor, less camber. Castor is dynamic camber so you get the benefits without the drawback on straight line traction.

you have too much caster when either:

* you cannot turn the steering wheel

* the wheel fits the guard or firewall

[No Crust Racing]

If the wheel hits the firewall you've got other problems...

[Sir Lord Van Von Vader'ham]

rightio, thanks duncan

getting an alignment next week, I think this should be ok

Front, -3deg camber, 1mm total toe out, 5deg castor

Rear, -1.5 camber, 1mm total toe in ( till i hit a bump, then 11ty camber and toe)

[Duncan]

sounds like a reasonable start. I would go a little more camber in the GTR but I think your car is strut front end, right? I'd also go less toe at the rear but again it is different to gtr setup.

[No Crust Racing]

On the advice of other S13 drivers I ended up with almost -3 fron and -1.5 rear camber, and total 2mm toe out front and total 2mm toe in rear,

Castor I'm not sure, as much as I could get was the advice.

The toe will be interesting and may be finessed at the track.

[Sir Lord Van Von Vader'ham]

Yep, mac strut.

Only issue with toe at the rear dan is my car has semi trailing arm irs, every time the suspension moves the alignment changes drastically. from static to full bump is something like .5mm to 12mm a side. same with camber

[No Crust Racing]

Don't worry, you'll go faster than me anyway, toe will make no difference when the driver is a ham sandwich (me).

Would you try doing the alignment yourself? as that was why I started this thread.

[Sir Lord Van Von Vader'ham]

haha

Ive done it a few times but never really happy with the results, im not accurate enough. this time im just getting a shop to do it.

[No Crust Racing]

Just get a decent shop, the ones I tried locally here are monkeys so I did it myself, took forever but hopefully because I took my time and cared it came out ok

[niZmO_Man]

Was browsing through Ikeya Formula website yesterday when I discovered their 'MAPLE A-ONE GAGE'.

[No Crust Racing]

Huh? If that's a joke I'm not following, but it's still early and I slept badly...

[Dale FZ1]

Only issue with toe at the rear dan is my car has semi trailing arm irs, every time the suspension moves the alignment changes drastically. from static to full bump is something like .5mm to 12mm a side. same with camber

Get onto Stew Wilkins, he's been playing with 1600s and Z cars for a long time, should have some gear and know how.

http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/index.php

[niZmO_Man]

Huh? If that's a joke I'm not following, but it's still early and I slept badly...

Go to their website lol.

[No Crust Racing]

That's pretty cool.

http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/maple-a-one-gage

[Sir Lord Van Von Vader'ham]

thought id bump this thread up again.

i now have a r32/33 multilink rear setup in my car, what alignment do people recommend for them? im using A050s at the moment

[No Crust Racing]

No idea from me, but I can bump this also and say that my car handled quite well in my opinion at the logic day I did, it felt nice and direct.

It seemed to air on the id of understeer at the limit in a faster speed sweeper which I think is roughly how you want it anyway?

I wouldn't mind it to be a touch more neutral so I'm assuming a little less front camber or a little firmer in the rear?

[Dale FZ1]

James I reckon the big trick is to install adjustable upper links in that rear end. That will allow you to get the camber setting you want, and most importantly, to dial out bump steer from big toe changes as it moves through its travel. Dynamic change is what can make them a handful, as you'd know with the old semi trailing arms.

I'd imagine yours will not be using a whole heap of travel so it's going to be easier to dial things in. It should be possible to get minimal toe change if you're using 50mm of bump and similar for droop.

Static settings, I'd think the 1 - 1.5 neg camber and 1 - 2mm toe in per side. Run it and go from there.

[Sir Lord Van Von Vader'ham]

Thanks man. It's had adjustable gear in so it so that won't be a problem. Yeah, the old semi trailing irs is/was quite a handful. Hoping even with some bump Steer the new setup will be a massive improvement.

I had it aligned today. Went with -1.5 camber as you suggested but dialed it back to 0.7mm toe in a side. Rear Toe is used mainly for stability is it not? If I need I can adjust it at the track.