R34 Wheel Alignment Specs

[urtwhistle]

I will be needing to get a decent wheel alignment for my R34 GTT and there are no decent wheel alignment places in Perth that I can drop the car off without telling them the exact specs I want it at. Last time I dropped it off to a well known company they set it up as a Nissan Bluebird.

I was wondering if you had any basic settings that you would use to start off with on a street car that was to be taken round a track. Any help would be greatly affected.

STOCK R34 GTT SETTINGS

Front Camber: -1.00

Front Caster: 7.00

Front Toe: 0.00

Rear Camber: -0.5

Rear Toe: 2.00mm in on each side

SAI: 9.00

I was thinking something along the lines of

Front Camber: -1.5

Front Caster: 5.5DEG

Front Toe: 1.5-2MM out TOTAL

Rear Camber:-1

Rear Toe: 1MM IN EACH

It has the old SYDNEYKID suspension setup. IE Bilstein shocks, whiteline springs, whiteline adjustable sway bars. JIC adjustable caster arms (front), Cusco adjustable toe arms (rear), Hicas eliminated & adjustable camber bushs in the front.

Regards

Chris

[GTSBoy]

Your suggested values are probably fine. I wouldn't back off the front caster at all, and I wouldn't add any more neg camber at the front if you're going to spend most of your time driving on the street. I wouldn't make it toe out either. Zero toe is probably the wisest for a streeter.

At the rear, no more neg camber than you suggest, preferably a little less.

cheers

[silviaz]

On 5/22/2013 at 3:19 PM, GTSBoy said:

Your suggested values are probably fine. I wouldn't back off the front caster at all, and I wouldn't add any more neg camber at the front if you're going to spend most of your time driving on the street. I wouldn't make it toe out either. Zero toe is probably the wisest for a streeter.

At the rear, no more neg camber than you suggest, preferably a little less.

cheers

When going to a suspension shop should I send them the default nissan settings or just let them do their own thing? I ask this because I have aftermarket rear camber arms and my car is lowered a bit (front end is basically stock after I change to those nismo bushes)

Edited December 17, 2024 by silviaz

[GTSBoy]

Once you lose the adjustable bushes, you have almost no adjustment at the front for anything that matters.

You can only wind so master caster at the front, and ~7° is fine.

You won't have choice of front camber.

If you only have rear camber arms (ie, do not also have adjustable upper tension arms), you shouldn't change their length very much, because you will introduce bump steer. And, you will struggle to find a workshop that will be capable of doing all the adjustment work necessary to simultaneously achieve a decent rear camber number, get the toe right, and minimise bump steer. I would guess there's probably 8 hours of work there.

So, stockish rear camber is fine. Although, keep in mind, that stock camber, by number value, does not mean stock arm length when the car is lowered. You will need to lengthen the RUCA to get back to stockish values and that will require the tension arm to be lengthened a little also. Without any other guidance, any change made to the RUCA should have the 2/3 of the same change made on the tension arm. But that is only a rough rule of thumb and the relationship might not remain linear across a wide range of adjustments. And it might not also be as close to minimum bump steer as you could achieve if you did the bump steer measurement and adjustment properly.

[silviaz]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Once you lose the adjustable bushes, you have almost no adjustment at the front for anything that matters.

You can only wind so master caster at the front, and ~7° is fine.

You won't have choice of front camber.

If you only have rear camber arms (ie, do not also have adjustable upper tension arms), you shouldn't change their length very much, because you will introduce bump steer. And, you will struggle to find a workshop that will be capable of doing all the adjustment work necessary to simultaneously achieve a decent rear camber number, get the toe right, and minimise bump steer. I would guess there's probably 8 hours of work there.

So, stockish rear camber is fine. Although, keep in mind, that stock camber, by number value, does not mean stock arm length when the car is lowered. You will need to lengthen the RUCA to get back to stockish values and that will require the tension arm to be lengthened a little also. Without any other guidance, any change made to the RUCA should have the 2/3 of the same change made on the tension arm. But that is only a rough rule of thumb and the relationship might not remain linear across a wide range of adjustments. And it might not also be as close to minimum bump steer as you could achieve if you did the bump steer measurement and adjustment properly.

Bit confused as what the answer to my question is? I guess with the front the only thing they can adjust is the tie rods?

[GTSBoy]

Well, unless you are prepared to do it yourself, or to pay someone for a lot of labour, you don't want to move the rear camber around much at all. Close to stock length on the rear upper arms (both the RUCAs and the tension arms) will minimise the addition of bump steer. That means you should probably be satisifed with whatever neg camber you end up with as a result of it being lowered, and not try to dial too much of it out. Dialling it out by making big changes to the RUCA length will require effort put into tuning the length of the tension arms.

And, apart from front caster and toe at both ends.....that's all there is to talk about. So, yes, toe settings, pretty much.