Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there, I've searched and searched... Anyone know where I can order a HFC for my 2003 coupe apart from b2auto or conceptz over in the states?

B2auto only stock the berks and conceptz only have kinetix and berk... I want some more choice such as Cnt racing or stillen.

Anyone dealt with any other USA suppliers or local sellers who sell HFCs ??

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425785-anyone-know-where-i-can-buy-a-hfc/
Share on other sites

Why do you V guys want every modification to be an off the shelf, brand name, bolt on affair? There are 1000's of fabricators out there that can custom make you decent high flow stainless cat/decat pipes without the high markup and shipping buying from the US brings, and that way it will fit better as LHD designs rarely work well.

After fitting up a Stillen twin stainless system for a customer, I was very disappointed with the quality and the materials. (the flanges were't even stainless, they were mild.) I would think twice about using their HFC's.

OP, surely you haven't tried that hard. Z1 Motorsports would have to be the largest US seller of V35 stuff although they do smash you on shipping for orders under $1k.

Whilst I have a set of Berk HFC's on my car (straight bolt on, no probs and surprisingly a very high quality unit), I do agree with Scott. Wouldn't be difficult for a decent fabricator to make up a nice set of HFC's for you. Could work out cheaper too.

V35's really are an easy car to work on/with. Anyone that tells you otherwise shouldn't be let near a car.

Also agree on that Stillen exhaust. Sounds nice but what a pain in the arse POS to fit.

  • Like 1

Hi scotty,

Personally I wanted a brand name cat because most of them claim they do not mess with the sensors so that I will not get a check engine light once installed.

Put it this way if someone could fabricate a pair of cats for me for under let's say $400 (the price of a pair of cnt cats delivered) which won't foul the sensors I would be more than happy to buy from them, until then I'm stuck with looking for brand names from the USA as my old cats are pretty gutted and broken.

Hi iamhe

Personally I've never used z1 before so I might ask them for a quote, I got quoted around 550 delivered for the berks from the other 2 vendors which is out of my budget, that is why I am looking for some other vendors who stock different brands so I could compare.

But if I could find someone who can fabricate a pair of cats for me locally for a better price of course I'd go with them.

^ Agree.

Just wait a little longer and get some Berk's.

Also interested as to which HFC's give the CEL and why they would do so?

I was told it is because more air is flowing through so it tricks the ecu that something is going wrong. I heard also that the Berks throw a check engine light, is this true in your case?

The CNT racing ones I enquired about have a extended bung for the sensor welded on so I was told they do not throw a check engine light.

Now we come to the crux of the issue. Manufacturers have been installing longer o2 bungs for years to get around the rear temp sensor throwing a code, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. You can trick the sensor directly instead, using a resistor I am fairly sure.

I thought the rear O2 sensor was just a confirmation that the cat is actually working, so as long as you have a working cat, and the rear O2 sensors have been fitted, you shouldn't be getting a CEL.

From memory, the extenders were useful for preventing a CEL if you use test pipes (no cat), as they get the O2 sensor tip out of the exhaust flow and therefore don't correctly detect the exhaust contents.

I was told it is because more air is flowing through so it tricks the ecu that something is going wrong. I heard also that the Berks throw a check engine light, is this true in your case?

The CNT racing ones I enquired about have a extended bung for the sensor welded on so I was told they do not throw a check engine light.

No, not true. I have no CEL. Seems like there is a lot of BS floating around about HFC's....

Or by using uprev to disable the fault codes....

I would if I had the cash right now, later down the track I will eventually get a tune, but right now I'm just looking to change the cats as they are broken and making a really annoying noise.

No, not true. I have no CEL. Seems like there is a lot of BS floating around about HFC's....

On g35driver, it seems some people have CEL on and some people don't with the Berk HFC's....so I was just wondering why was it that some cars threw CEL's and some did not....

Also, I've looking on Z1 motorsports, they are selling Berks for $495, not inc shipping which I guess would be another $100 or so on top, so $595 total, out of my budget.

I'm really looking for the CNT Racing ones, shipped around $400... does anyone use any other US vendors to buy their parts from??

Or does anyone know where I could fabricate a pair of HFC's for under $400 in Melbourne?

Or is anyone selling their stock cats/ aftermarket cats ???

The tight wad option is to punch the cat's out and ignore the light.

I could make them from stainless but like I said, the high flow 100cpsi cats alone are $300, plus getting stainless flanges laser cut. There is no way anyone could do them locally for under $400 unless they cut major corners, as CNT must have done do deliver them for that price.

Tried the wreckers?

I would if I had the cash right now, later down the track I will eventually get a tune, but right now I'm just looking to change the cats as they are broken and making a really annoying noise.

On g35driver, it seems some people have CEL on and some people don't with the Berk HFC's....so I was just wondering why was it that some cars threw CEL's and some did not....

Also, I've looking on Z1 motorsports, they are selling Berks for $495, not inc shipping which I guess would be another $100 or so on top, so $595 total, out of my budget.

I'm really looking for the CNT Racing ones, shipped around $400... does anyone use any other US vendors to buy their parts from??

Or does anyone know where I could fabricate a pair of HFC's for under $400 in Melbourne?

Or is anyone selling their stock cats/ aftermarket cats ???

I would be questioning what other mods have been done and if there were any issues when refitting the sensor or even how it was handled during the upgrade.

I got mine through Concept Z Performance and the cats are very high quality (especially for American parts).

I could probably sell you my stock cats if you want a set. They are roughly ~55,000kms old. PM me if you are interested.

Concept z quoted me 550 delivered and then 600 delivered when I used a different email to get a quote lol.... Pretty dodgy.... If I get the berks I would probably get them from b2auto who quoted me around 500 delivered... However I would still much prefer to get the Cnt racing cats which upon doing some research, seem to be a good quality cat at a good price.

But I've pm'ed you anyway regarding your stock cats...

I installed Berks HFC on my 370gt coupe a couple of weeks back, no CEL, when i got them from the US i was amazed at the quality of materials used (SS) and workmanship in making them, i would absolutely recommend them. They are more expensive than some other brands like kinetix but definitely worth the extra cash!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...