Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there, I've searched and searched... Anyone know where I can order a HFC for my 2003 coupe apart from b2auto or conceptz over in the states?

B2auto only stock the berks and conceptz only have kinetix and berk... I want some more choice such as Cnt racing or stillen.

Anyone dealt with any other USA suppliers or local sellers who sell HFCs ??

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425785-anyone-know-where-i-can-buy-a-hfc/
Share on other sites

Why do you V guys want every modification to be an off the shelf, brand name, bolt on affair? There are 1000's of fabricators out there that can custom make you decent high flow stainless cat/decat pipes without the high markup and shipping buying from the US brings, and that way it will fit better as LHD designs rarely work well.

After fitting up a Stillen twin stainless system for a customer, I was very disappointed with the quality and the materials. (the flanges were't even stainless, they were mild.) I would think twice about using their HFC's.

OP, surely you haven't tried that hard. Z1 Motorsports would have to be the largest US seller of V35 stuff although they do smash you on shipping for orders under $1k.

Whilst I have a set of Berk HFC's on my car (straight bolt on, no probs and surprisingly a very high quality unit), I do agree with Scott. Wouldn't be difficult for a decent fabricator to make up a nice set of HFC's for you. Could work out cheaper too.

V35's really are an easy car to work on/with. Anyone that tells you otherwise shouldn't be let near a car.

Also agree on that Stillen exhaust. Sounds nice but what a pain in the arse POS to fit.

  • Like 1

Hi scotty,

Personally I wanted a brand name cat because most of them claim they do not mess with the sensors so that I will not get a check engine light once installed.

Put it this way if someone could fabricate a pair of cats for me for under let's say $400 (the price of a pair of cnt cats delivered) which won't foul the sensors I would be more than happy to buy from them, until then I'm stuck with looking for brand names from the USA as my old cats are pretty gutted and broken.

Hi iamhe

Personally I've never used z1 before so I might ask them for a quote, I got quoted around 550 delivered for the berks from the other 2 vendors which is out of my budget, that is why I am looking for some other vendors who stock different brands so I could compare.

But if I could find someone who can fabricate a pair of cats for me locally for a better price of course I'd go with them.

^ Agree.

Just wait a little longer and get some Berk's.

Also interested as to which HFC's give the CEL and why they would do so?

I was told it is because more air is flowing through so it tricks the ecu that something is going wrong. I heard also that the Berks throw a check engine light, is this true in your case?

The CNT racing ones I enquired about have a extended bung for the sensor welded on so I was told they do not throw a check engine light.

Now we come to the crux of the issue. Manufacturers have been installing longer o2 bungs for years to get around the rear temp sensor throwing a code, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. You can trick the sensor directly instead, using a resistor I am fairly sure.

I thought the rear O2 sensor was just a confirmation that the cat is actually working, so as long as you have a working cat, and the rear O2 sensors have been fitted, you shouldn't be getting a CEL.

From memory, the extenders were useful for preventing a CEL if you use test pipes (no cat), as they get the O2 sensor tip out of the exhaust flow and therefore don't correctly detect the exhaust contents.

I was told it is because more air is flowing through so it tricks the ecu that something is going wrong. I heard also that the Berks throw a check engine light, is this true in your case?

The CNT racing ones I enquired about have a extended bung for the sensor welded on so I was told they do not throw a check engine light.

No, not true. I have no CEL. Seems like there is a lot of BS floating around about HFC's....

Or by using uprev to disable the fault codes....

I would if I had the cash right now, later down the track I will eventually get a tune, but right now I'm just looking to change the cats as they are broken and making a really annoying noise.

No, not true. I have no CEL. Seems like there is a lot of BS floating around about HFC's....

On g35driver, it seems some people have CEL on and some people don't with the Berk HFC's....so I was just wondering why was it that some cars threw CEL's and some did not....

Also, I've looking on Z1 motorsports, they are selling Berks for $495, not inc shipping which I guess would be another $100 or so on top, so $595 total, out of my budget.

I'm really looking for the CNT Racing ones, shipped around $400... does anyone use any other US vendors to buy their parts from??

Or does anyone know where I could fabricate a pair of HFC's for under $400 in Melbourne?

Or is anyone selling their stock cats/ aftermarket cats ???

The tight wad option is to punch the cat's out and ignore the light.

I could make them from stainless but like I said, the high flow 100cpsi cats alone are $300, plus getting stainless flanges laser cut. There is no way anyone could do them locally for under $400 unless they cut major corners, as CNT must have done do deliver them for that price.

Tried the wreckers?

I would if I had the cash right now, later down the track I will eventually get a tune, but right now I'm just looking to change the cats as they are broken and making a really annoying noise.

On g35driver, it seems some people have CEL on and some people don't with the Berk HFC's....so I was just wondering why was it that some cars threw CEL's and some did not....

Also, I've looking on Z1 motorsports, they are selling Berks for $495, not inc shipping which I guess would be another $100 or so on top, so $595 total, out of my budget.

I'm really looking for the CNT Racing ones, shipped around $400... does anyone use any other US vendors to buy their parts from??

Or does anyone know where I could fabricate a pair of HFC's for under $400 in Melbourne?

Or is anyone selling their stock cats/ aftermarket cats ???

I would be questioning what other mods have been done and if there were any issues when refitting the sensor or even how it was handled during the upgrade.

I got mine through Concept Z Performance and the cats are very high quality (especially for American parts).

I could probably sell you my stock cats if you want a set. They are roughly ~55,000kms old. PM me if you are interested.

Concept z quoted me 550 delivered and then 600 delivered when I used a different email to get a quote lol.... Pretty dodgy.... If I get the berks I would probably get them from b2auto who quoted me around 500 delivered... However I would still much prefer to get the Cnt racing cats which upon doing some research, seem to be a good quality cat at a good price.

But I've pm'ed you anyway regarding your stock cats...

I installed Berks HFC on my 370gt coupe a couple of weeks back, no CEL, when i got them from the US i was amazed at the quality of materials used (SS) and workmanship in making them, i would absolutely recommend them. They are more expensive than some other brands like kinetix but definitely worth the extra cash!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...