Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25Det Questions.

Soundboyracer
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Neo is the smarter choice. Yes, it has RB26 parts....has RB26 conrods and an N1 oil pump. That's about the total list of actual RB26 parts. Unlike the normal RB25 it has solid lifters, same as RB26 without actually being the same parts. In generanl the Neo is a much better motor. Makes more power and torque out of the box, more modern head design, better turbo (if you plan on staying with it) and a better ECU (it is Nistune-able).

Nothing else that is different from non-Neo engines really matters.

Soundboyracer Enthusiast

Soundboyracer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nice. I'll probably pick up the Neo. Right now I'm checking what I need to buy and getting a solid tally as to how much I'll spend. I'm gonna be using it for daily. So I want something reliable till I can afford to get a daily

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

It will cost a bomb to do it properly. I know, because I've done it into an R32.

Assuming you want to use all the newer ancillaries (and you should, no point in using vintage R32/A31 era stuff that's already had a full life)...power steering hoses need to be cut and shut. Same with air con.

Heater hoses need a fiddle. (Not expensive, but must be remembered.)

ECU/Engine loom needs quite a bit of alteration if you want to put the Neo loom into the older car, which is a much better idea than trying to use the old engine's loom and switching plugs or actual sensors etc on the engine.

You'll possibly need non-original radiator hoses to line the engine outlet up with the rad.

You'll need a good fuel pump. Budget for all the things that you should replace while you have easy access to the motor. That's timing belt, water pump, under plenum coolant hoses and any vac/boost hoses that are getting crispy. New engine mount rubbers are nice. Cam cover gaskets, front and rear main seals. The list continues for a bit.

Then there's the gearbox situation. You should use an RB25 turbo box. That will mean needing 1.5 tailshafts to build a custom job out of. Will also require access to a box of different Nissan gearox crossmembers so you can find the one that suits that box in that car. You will also need the Navara speedo mod to make the old speedo work with the new box.

Use an R33 box if you can as the clutch is easier to work with than the one on R34 boxes.

Sorry for any extra line spaces. This forum seems to be extensively broken since it cam back and formatted is always shot.

Edited by GTSBoy
Soundboyracer Enthusiast

Soundboyracer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I understand. I know I'll have tons of work to do but would the series 2 be easier to adapt into the car?

Here's my list of mods.

Aftermarket intake

Upgraded clutch

R33 gauge cluster. I'll also install some other gauges

Bov

5 hole conversion

2 way

Maybe a short shifter and some better seats

Fuel pump and a regulator

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Same amount of work to put an R33 engine in as R34 when it comes to all the custom pipework and so on. Just go with the better engine.

R33 cluster will make the speedo easier to get working, but you'll have to wire it up properly. R34 cluster looks better and would suit even better again. Dunno if it will fit better.

DO NOT FIT A BOV!!!!!!! The standard R34 BOV will do the job.

The rest of it is to your own personal taste.

Soundboyracer Enthusiast

Soundboyracer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The problem is a skyline in my country is closer to 200k. Saw a r34 for 250k recently

Might get a S13 for 100k if im lucky.

Cifero are around 40k stockish

What happened in my country is that they don't allow vehicles to be registered after 5 years old.

So there's just a few skylines and sylivas. All of which hold a nice coin.

I'll maybe have 65-70k invested into the cifero from start to finish

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...