Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

R33 GTR

Nismo 1.2mm metal head gasket

Racepace cam gears, but not yet adjusted

Garrett -9's with 1 bar actuators

Nismo fuel pump (rewired)

Mine's front pipe

3" test pipe

3.5" Tomei Ti Expreme

Greddy Profec B spec 2 (disconnected)

17psi on standard ecu

20130905_152938_zpsd514b210.jpg

Soon to be added: PFC, ID1000, Z32 AFM, E85

R31Nismoid claims 280rwkw on 18psi @ Racepace dyno with his stock ecu.

To be honest I was expecting much less though - around 250rwkw.

I would not be surprised if it were to read lower on a dyno dynamics roller dyno.

Point of my dyno check was to ensure AFR is safe, timing is accurate and no knocking - all of which were achieved.

Also I'm very glad to report that there is very minimal boost drop from the Garrett 1 bar actuators with only a small amount of preload wound in.

Reaches a maximum of 17psi at 4,000rpm and does not drop below 16psi all the way till redline.

When it gets tuned, I will get the cam gears dialed in and reattach the boost controller to keep the gates shut for as long as possible.

Looking forward to some good improvements in the response department.

I'm not a doubter because I have no clue about these things but I just haven't seen it before so I was amazed.

Keep up the good work though and as long as the AFR's are sweet and you're happy then that's all that matters

Nah, I'm talking about Grant, cos I know he had his old 33 gtr tuned by Trent and got a little over 300kw on the same dyno with similar mods and he had PFC.

To settle any doubts, I think it seems like quite a normal figure. Although peak power is quite similar, you can see where the gains are with the car properly tuned.

50Nm difference in peak torque. Reaches almost exactly the same spot (Approx 4200rpm)

80kw vs 95kw @ 3000rpm

190kw vs 210kw @ 4000rpm

220kw vs 265kw @ 5000rpm

260kw vs 300kw @ 6000rpm

If Grant doesn't mind I'm happy to post his graph or he can so people have something to compare with.

Or it can be found in the RB26 dyno results thread anyway

Unregistered Dark Blue 34 GTT on way to Vicroads - don't worry, it's registered now.

Congrats! Didn't spot you sorry, maybe I was too busy focusing on make do GPS and rushing to get to Trent's cos was running late

Congrats! Didn't spot you sorry, maybe I was too busy focusing on make do GPS and rushing to get to Trent's cos was running late

No stress, with that colour, it'd blend right in traffic anyway!

Fatz, he's talking about my first 33r with GT-SS's not the last one.

Michael, post them up, btw I didn't doubt you. Just found it interesting that you achieved with standard ecu.

Probably says about your motor being healthy - I was told mine had low compression in cyl 2, didn't know of it until I enquired about buying motor/box back. No idea how long the cyl 2 were down for, never done a compression test on cars I buy :/

Grant, nothing unhealthy with that figure at all. As you can see, by 5000rpm you're up by a massive 45kw.

Don't think you mentioned cam gears either in that recipe. Obviously some more gains to be had in the mid range.

That along with E85 would have been pretty damn quick setup. Also you didn't have fuel pump, injectors or afms upgraded which would have been the limiting factor to push any further.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...