Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Great write up mate. Spent my Sunday morning reading thru it. Was wondering if you have done any brake ducting (how and pics?) and where you got the passenger side head light carbon duct from?

Great write up mate. Spent my Sunday morning reading thru it. Was wondering if you have done any brake ducting (how and pics?) and where you got the passenger side head light carbon duct from?

Thanks Adam, stay tuned as there's heaps to come. There hasn't been any need for brake ducting as yet, our last track day and prior to that the brakes were fantasic, now that we have blocked up the holes in the front bar and with more track laps it could be a different story. If needed one way would be to create holes in the front bar, attach silicone ducting to it and guide it to the caliper. Ill post pics up if needed. Only the drivers side is carbon, the left one is fibre glass from tomei. Justin from Revzone.com.au ordered most of my jap parts as he always gets awesome prices. Here's a link of what it looks like below.

http://www.nengun.com/tomei/headlamp-air-intake-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr

motor looking pretty shmicko!.. on the topic of brake ducting, I am/was planning to mount some allstar brake ducts into my 400r style bar, 3" hose back to ally air guide plates mounted to castor rods/LCA's BUT... how did you go with 3-4 laps? i'm thinking for sprints time attacks and short style events, brake ducting Vs blocked holes for greater aero benifits, whats the verdict?

For sprints and time attack as they are usually under 6 laps its never been a problem, I've run alloy air guides in the past but took them off. I physically couldn't tell the difference between them being on or off. Not sure what the temps were at but it has not affected the braking what so ever as the brakes are fantastic. So now with the front blocked off it may be a different story, Bc don't think it will make any difference as time attack is only a few laps at a time. Recently read an article by Simon mcbeath in race car engineering, the short story.... They tested a wrx with a small front splitter and a larger front splitter in a wind tunnel test. Test showed there wasn't much downforce difference to the front of the car with the larger splitter vs the smaller splitter which is odd, they then blocked off all the front holes in the front bar and all the front down force then appeared. Seems previously not only was the open bar causing drag but the air was escaping through the bar and then under the car not allowing the downforce to occur.

ahh okay, yep, read something similar on time attack forums or somewhere ages ago. seems as tho brake ducting offers no gain for 6 laps or less. that settles that then :cheers:

It varies for all, depends on your driving style, brakes, weight of car, track. If you notice you need cooling its not that difficult to do later.

Speaking of brakes though... My rotor hats were just modified to suit v8 supercar rotors which arrived today.

post-19978-0-79295900-1374663755_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

How long till engine is in and running?

Great question, car was supposed to be ready in July but had some unforeseen hold ups. So this time I don't wont to state exactly so I don't disappoint myself lol. There's heaps still needing to be done and guys can only work after hours at the moment. I'm gonna say completed by September. Ill post the vids up when its alive and tuned if I get a chance.

We are happy to welcome a new sponsor onboard, VPW Australia. We now have all our proflow fittings, hoses, alloy bends and clampshell couplings to put it all together. There catalogue is a novel, they stock everything.

post-19978-0-36581200-1375068436_thumb.jpg

Looks great Steve.

However, I would have thought that mounting the oil tank at the front like that would leave it subject to possible damage.

I would have thought mounting it in the boot would have been better in the the case of an impact, and even with weight distributuion.

Looks great Steve.

However, I would have thought that mounting the oil tank at the front like that would leave it subject to possible damage.

I would have thought mounting it in the boot would have been better in the the case of an impact, and even with weight distributuion.

Hey Damian, its only subject to damage if you stack the car, placing it there gives us better weight distribution in the front left as Phillip island has mainly left hand turns. Also by placing it there it needs much less plumbing which saves weight and the biggest bonus is that it costs less in plumbing too...score!

Hey Damian, its only subject to damage if you stack the car, placing it there gives us better weight distribution in the front left as Phillip island has mainly left hand turns. Also by placing it there it needs much less plumbing which saves weight and the biggest bonus is that it costs less in plumbing too...score!

This is true. But shit does sometimes happen. Fingers crossed it doesnt lol.

Yeah i know how easily plumbing can add up, especially when it runs the length of the car a couple of times over.

Ive never personally driven PI, but i can see where you are coming from. I was more thinking about the front and rear distribution, rather than left and right. But I dare say you'd have more experience in this than me haha.

Good luck man. Would love to see this thing screaming in the metal.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...