Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been thinking and discussing with a friend what price you could you possible get for my fully caged shell if I was to sell it all in parts stripped?

Also anyone want to take a guess what I could sell the whole motor for?

Now were only discussing this so not sure what will happen as yet. But some realistic guesses would be great.

shell maybe 3-4k and might take a while, depending on what sweeteners you add with it.

motor maybe 15-18k could also take a bit and as above depends what extras are on it. i forget what you actually have in terms of internals and all the like.

i've stripped a few before but never really sold a shell, usually fill it with scrap metal and get about 400-500

at the end of the day your always going to make more in parts than complete.

  • 2 weeks later...

Car is no longer for sale, I couldn't part with it. I was selling cheap Because funds were going into another gtr32 to compete in pro class this year. So if I can raise 63400 that should see this beast hit pro class, with the aim of a 1.23 lap time. I know it can be done I just have to raise the funds some how. Another fun year ahead lol.

  • Like 1

Yeah 63k ish should be enough to get the lap times downs on top of this car already. That means full floor with more aero, more power, and new suspension. But raising that money will be difficult so not planning on doing any time attack events yet, I just want to get into it and drive it sometime next month. Maybe a winton day or wrx Calder next month. Will see.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

This is true, picked up the car from vpw in epping which we had on display. car stolen between roughly 1pm and 6.30pm, on an open tandem trailer ready to be transported back to bc automotive from my place in essendon. Trailer was locked secure. Middle of the day, someone had to have seen something or know something, we've had a report already in regards to a trailer spotted at an address and cops are on it. If anyone hears anything please contact the police, if anyone notices second hand parts for sale please check the serial numbers on em prior to purchase. Thanks

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Since the monster isn't competing I can show one of the power graphs prior to the event at wtac. At world time attack it was turned up even more but I don't have that graph as it was on phil armours dyno. I could ask, but this should give you an indication of what was going on.

post-19978-0-77921000-1400492833_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

I should also mention the reason the graph drops off around 7500 is from wheel spin. Rev limit was 8800. Even with 3 fat people in the boot couldn't stop it from spinning on Brett's dyno. I'll try and get phill's dyno graphs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...