Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just sold my Skyline one month ago and the owner has been away working and when he tried starting it the car it started than died. It wouldn't start at all after woulds and he flattened the battery twice trying to get it going. He got the vehicle towed to a mechanics and they have told him the car has no compression??? WTF could this be caused from washing the bores? Car ran fine and never blew smoke apart from being too rich at start up and idle it had no other issues

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426316-car-sat-for-a-month-wont-start/
Share on other sites

He got the vehicle towed to a mechanics and they have told him the car has no compression??? WTF could this be caused from washing the bores?

Bore wash increases wear to the bore so yes a loss of compression can happen

Sounds like the "Mechanic" doesn't know shit from sugar or he's trying one on.

Buyer drives it home, parks it, doesn't do anything else, a month later tries to start it to no avail.

- Replace Plugs ($25) n Battery ($150) with new. Try start it.

If indeed the compression is low (no compression - pfffft) it was farked before sold.

IMHO anyway.

Sounds like the "Mechanic" doesn't know shit from sugar or he's trying one on.

Buyer drives it home, parks it, doesn't do anything else, a month later tries to start it to no avail.

- Replace Plugs ($25) n Battery ($150) with new. Try start it.

If indeed the compression is low (no compression - pfffft) it was farked before sold.

IMHO anyway.

The mechanic doesn't know shit? but yet yet your giving him advice to spend 175$ on parts which may only turn out to be a further kick in the guts

Is this an RB20 or 25 at all? Sounds like the hydraulic lifters may have bled down due to sitting for too long. Just keep cranking, for no more than about 20secs at a time without letting the starter cool.

This is a easy

While he was away couple of hes pissed mates thought it was a great idea to take the skyline for a rap to Maccas to get a $2 cheeseburger or two

Nek Minit

Pushing it back where they got it from

  • Like 1

Are you certain the guy was actually away working? Maybe he is lying and just raped the car for a month and then it died. Either way, it's got nothing to do with you. As long as it was running when he drove away then anything that happens after that is his problem.

  • Like 1

Are you certain the guy was actually away working? Maybe he is lying and just raped the car for a month and then it died. Either way, it's got nothing to do with you. As long as it was running when he drove away then anything that happens after that is his problem.

Well said.

Simply put Yes I am. I believe the money is not wasted spent on these items. Not by the seller but by the buyer.

Cheaper option - clean existing plugs, swap in a battery from a mate and crank away....

-> Skyline works fine, not driven for a month, no compression - Some one is lying !!

If I didn't drive my GTR for a month. And then killed the battery twice trying to start it then I would do exactly what I advised.

My plugs will be fouled and my battery is likely also cactus. My compression would be 165-170 not 0psi

The mechanic doesn't know shit? but yet yet your giving him advice to spend 175$ on parts which may only turn out to be a further kick in the guts

  • Like 1

Maybe check the compression yourself to make sure, I can remember a similar thing with an r31 my bro owned, it ended up being a cracked cylinder head....

Edited by AngryRBGTX

Are you certain the guy was actually away working? Maybe he is lying and just raped the car for a month and then it died. Either way, it's got nothing to do with you. As long as it was running when he drove away then anything that happens after that is his problem.

so much this.

no compression?

so, not 1 cylinder has an ounce of pressure?

I find it very hard to believe.

maybe no fuel pressure?

in which case, fuel pump.

and it wouldn't start.

do the usual.

test fuel, test spark, actual comp test(with vid results), and go from there

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...