Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its most definately not needed, though jap cars are tuned for fuel even higher than our premium, u will get better economy due to higher efficiency from premium, but no noticable power increases, unless u advance ur timing with the better fuel.

I ran my skyline normal BP unleaded... never had problem

in few months I squirt some octane booster... that's aobut it.

really there is no need use high octane in NA cars.... as long as unleaded is Clean enough.

cheers

Joe

ps. I dont take any responsibility for any action due to above commments... :D

no need for premium as mentioned...

premium is generally only needed on engines that are put under a bit of stress, to stop the fuel combusting before the spark plug ignites it... your N/A shouldn't have this problem..

For some cars yes, for others no. My Bluebird (SR20DE) ran on normal happily, but my R32 Skyline GTS (RB20DE) pinged pretty bad on anything but premium, and thats at stock timing of 15 degrees too. I could of reduced the timing to run normal unleaded, but that defeats the purpose really as you get worse fuel eco with reduced timing (as well as reduced response)... Try it, and listen very carefully with it loaded up some hills and some detonation isn't very audiable...

I use premium but not always 98RON (only when its at the same price as premium, which is really really rare :bs!: , and its more suitable for turbos and really modded n/a anywayz). I find its more economical, you get more kms from premium rather than using normal unleaded. Not sure about performance though, but yea worth the extra 5c and u get cleaner injector i guess.

Experiment a little see which ones the best.

p.s. as PVA_Glue says...I dont take any responsibility for any action due to above commments... :rofl:

Thanks for the reply guys, I've got a Turbo33 at the moment but am in the process of selling the wifes VTSS(supercharged V6), I wanted to get her a WRX but she doesn't like them, she'd prefer a Skyline so I thought to go NA as it will save us on insurance, fuel and hopefully the initial purchase cost, plus I think they would go quite well as my GTS-T still accelerates nicely even when not in boost.

Turbomad: my mate went for a n/a for much the same reasons as you mention.

He is very happy with his purchase so far.. and saved $5k on what a decent turbo would cost + the extras. Exactly the same features and look anyhow other than the gofast bits. Still drives very nicely, and just a good car all round. Nothing local could offer same specifications or features for a similar price.

Insurance was around $800 through justcars for an n/a too for a 25y/o+ driver.

Can you actually have premium and 98RON mixed together in 1 tank, like half of each? Can this do any harm?

e.g. you have half a tank of premium left, and than u found out 98RON is the same price as premium and thought u'd might as well fill up.

Please advise.

:)

BTW, this is for a N/A not Turbo line.

I always use 98 ron just for the peace of mind, and in my opinion the car runs a lot smoother on 98 than premium (95). Once I added octane boost to 98ron fuel and it ran smoother again. They are tuned for 100+ron fuel so you might as well get as close to that as you can. Sure its probably not necessary, but why skimp? Asuming you save 5c per litre by getting premium instead of 98, this is only a saving of $3 per tank - which is hardly significant.

Cheers

Greg

well actually the two different octane ratings means that no the fuels won't mix in the tank. The specific gravity of the fuels is different, due to their different octane rating, the 98 is denser and will make it's way below the 95. But yeah no problem in putting half and half in the tank.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...