Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If he's "porting and polishing" the head for $660, then he's really only waving a die grinder over it briefly to clean up a few casting dags and that's about it. Either that, or he's got no idea what he's doing and he's just going to hog it out. Refer to my first reply on page 1. I reckon a decent porting job can consume $2000 easy.

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thats what i thought thats why i posted that up to show the quote broken down a little -

then i was looking at this -

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/rb-nissan-1/

step 1 and 2 this seem like a good price,

but i am seriously considering this

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/rb-30-25-torque-monster/

Looks like no porting on that one though , try supeflow heads at Liverpool I've seen a rb25 he was doing looked pretty good to me, wherever u go I think you are within your rights to see examples of work. Like in west ends case I know they do some of jems engines but I doubt they will tell you that. Ask who ever you go with exactly what porting and polishing you will get for the price

buy my head, it will save u alot. i got a fully prepped 25 head sitting on my workbench, fully machined for a 30 bottom end.

was gonna use it but i dont know if i can be assed to rebuild another motor.

just get urself a new set of lifters and ur good to go.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/422340-rb25det-head-modified/

i have a garret 35/40 at the moment but considering a change..

looking to run 360kw - 420kw.. may never get that hight but best to build motor to handle

Looks like a stock head would be fine with some Tomei cams

forget porting..my 26/30 makes 400 rwkw with 35r with stock head and stock rb30 block.

just buy this

http://www.ripsracing.com/catalog/Short-Blocks-37/RB30-Stock-Internal-Shortblock---2WD-10.html

or lash out and get the forged version

http://www.ripsracing.com/catalog/Short-Blocks-37/RB30-Forged-Internal-Shortblock---2WD-14.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...