Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've lined up an r33 rb26dett with ecu & loom & r34gtt manual gbox.

I believe both motor & box are pull so no probs matching them up

Modified RWD sump & custom tail shaft.

Considering r32 ecu & nistune for tuning.

This is going into my z31.

Any recommendations or things to avoid - lookout for ?

Cheers, Paul

Edited by pauls
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427667-r33-rb26-into-89-z31/
Share on other sites

Bolts? I was thinking blu tac!

There's a few pics floating around and a heap of BS chit chat, but no actual detailed rb26 build threads anywhere that I can find.

Would have been nice to know specific nuances about the rb26, GTT box or even better tricky bits encountered during upgrade, but seems will learn it all on the job.

Str00th did the same to a 200zr that was up for sale around mid 2011 but no real details or info on where it went?

PMd str00th ages ago and his insight was 'don't do it'. We all know what the natural instinct is when we hear that response...

Cheers, Paul

Edited by pauls

depends on the z31

is it vg or a rb

if rb its a bolt in job

if vg you need to rear mount the sumop ( little bit more work)

gtt box slapps straight in minor cut and shut of the cross member. pull push doesnt mateer just determins what clutchand slaev you use

wiring is easier in the z31 as it old school

ic is a bit of a pain but once again really not that hard

and you need to run a header tank on teh radiator otherwise its a bitch to bleed

one of the easier conversions youw ill find

I think you should expect the top of the radiator to still be a lot lower than the top of an RB. Hence a header tank. Way back in the way backs, the VLs used to crack heads a lot because mechanics didn't bleed them up properly, and the nose on a VL is not as low and pointy as a Z31.

  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
×
×
  • Create New...