Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mine *should* have all the go-fast bits needed for a low 13sec.. and I just got a HKS camgear put in and nice tune-up and its feeling quicker than ever. I find that after the camgear it spins up a fair bit quicker to redline so was worthwhile.

So will see what i can do in a week or two :rolleyes: Poor tyres will be thing holding me back i think.

Yours is a top effort though.. no gas, no slicks! :P

Thats a much nicer curve

Yeah, cheers :P Its quite funny, because I'm (obviously) really stoked and I was talking to someone recently who realised what my new power figure was and didn't see why I was quite so happy. The power figure is good, but getting up and going - and pulling through the midrange is meaty as anything. Feels like the 2.5turbo has been pulled and a big NA motor that revs to 7000rpm has been put in, 10-11psi is being reached by 2400rpm (lower than I expected - not sure what normal is). The area beneath the curve makes it feel to me like an all around much faster car, and just more pleasant to potter around in too :rolleyes:

I definately rate dyno tuning as a very important step - even without trying it at the strip... its obviously made the car more responsive etc, which has to be worth something in practical terms.

Guest Robo's

Dyno tuning is great, the only way to go. We played around with the boost settings on mine and tried to get the A/F ratios spot on. Also had a problem with spark too. Once you experience it, you get a picture of how the car performs and everything works together. Still mine is not 100% running correctly, but im not going to get this without a proper tuning tool.

What computer you got?

i have a 4 door with full 3" crpy cat in place bleed valve running 10.5 psi

soon to have fmic and safc and sedans are 70kgs lighter plus i am doing 100k service soon so i mayswell do the cam gear at the same time, hopefully should be around that mark havnt had it down the strip yet.

i only made 195.5 rwhp with boost and exh oh and filter so hoping to get some decent hp after i/c gear safc and 100k service.

Dyno tuning is great, the only way to go.  We played around with the boost settings on mine and tried to get the A/F ratios spot on.  Also had a problem with spark too.  Once you experience it, you get a picture of how the car performs and everything works together.  Still mine is not 100% running correctly, but im not going to get this without a proper tuning tool.  

What computer you got?

Yeah, it was great having an exhaust probe in there tracking things - and spotted some shady boost behaviour etc. It lays everything out on the table for you.

I'm just using an S-AFC2 :P

Guest Robo's

Yeah its great, as soon as we started to boost mine up, it started to splutter. So out come the plugs for some smaller gaps. Fired it back up and no misses. Even tried to boost it further, it read 14.7psi on the dyno print out, shot out 216rwkw, but it had more ups and downs than a rollercoaster. So pulled it back to 13.3psi and it was nice and smooth, made a little less up top for about 500rpm , but mid range was much better.

very nice, gotta be happy with that... glad you didn't resort to using NOS :wave:
But was your 12 with NOS?

Both your posts in this thread have been questioning the validity of nitrous.

You sound like the V8 Brigade 20 years ago when they bagged turbochargers and any form of forced induction and labelled it cheating :cheers:

Nitrous is a power adder, just like turbo or supercharging. Sure, it had a more limited application, but why does that make it cheating? All you're doing is squeezing more oxygen into the combustion cylinders, exactly what a turbocharger does. Who cares whether it's because a turbine is forcing it in, or a bottle is forcing it in? It's all just oxygen.

Get with the times. No-one cares whether you used nitrous or not. All that matters at the end of the day is that they're running 10s, and you're running 11s.

11's with gas ya goose :-D

I have developed a dickhead filter that gets rid of all the anti-nitrous, anti-thinking crap that goes on in peoples tiny minds so stuff like that is really water off a duck's back. Doesn't really phase me and i no longer take it personally.

Just to shut some people up though, I am racing with some of the other guys at WSID on the 30th of this month. The plan? No gas, standard turbo, 1.0bar, 12.6 ET @ approx 108mph.

Then you can all LICK MY SWEATY 11 SECOND BALLSACK!!!

:cheers:

Adrian

Maybe I am old fashioned (at 23 years young), but with NOS you can sit there all day running the same time, after x amount of runs you will run out, and need to refill the bottle... relational to consistency if you ask me.

I don't disagree with NOS, I just think it is should be treated separate all together... its non street legal, same as slicks etc...

The only time you can use it, is on the 1/4 mile strip.... (same with slicks) you are changing your car from being a street car to a non-legal street car - and in doing that you are putting yourself up against all the other non-legal street cars, which run much quicker cars.

I'm not big into the drag scene, so all this speaking is probably coming from inexperience (but it is all my opinion after all... we are all allowed those right?) I do want to get down to the strip and see what I can run (I believe it does take more skill than what it looks like), but I’m more interested in doing it on full street trim, so I know how quick my car is, all the time, not if I put slicks on, take out the spare tyre, etc...

I believe the race track is a better indication of how good a cars performance is (all round) NOS isn't much good on there.... I have mates in their LS1s which are quick.... in a straight line only...

The times 2rismo is running are better than I could do in my GTR (current state), and the times you will do merli will probably be better than I’ll ever get to... just opinion/thoughts.... I know I’m not alone in this thinking.

PS 12.6, no nos, standard turbo - that's impressive, must be some driving skills there

erm - ferni.. but legally just changing your stock airbox to a pod in some states may be "illegal" and "non street legal". Its a bit silly to classify it like that.

I find it hard at the drag strip to "feel" the car as much with the helmet on.. to know what its doing, to tell if its even really if its spinning the wheels. On the street you'd tell straight away and back off, but when you're relying a lot more on instinct and practice its like a very closed environment. So it does take good practice to get it right i think in the full dragstrip environment (helmet on, etc)

deano, i was reffering to the question from BOOSTD about who was first to run 12.x on std turbo. I have absolutely no idea. Get it?

And ferni, if I run my car without gas, with my spare in the boot etc but still have an externally venting BOV, is it in street legal trim? Very poor effort in classification, dude.

Adrian

PS 12.6, no nos, standard turbo - that's impressive, must be some driving skills there

Thanks but I'll let you know if I do it or not. I have run 12.6 @ the same mph as I run "no-gas" but as the WOT switch was playing up and i had it armed with the intention of using it, I wont claim it till i've done it - a problem that is rife on this forum.

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...