Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dont take the nut all the way off when i changed my wheel . i tryed beating the back of the old wheel but it didnt budge so with a mate i sat in the drivers seat and jiggled on the wheel while my mate tapped the shaft with a hammer and a bit of timber

thanks jay, I'll give that a shot right now....

the steering wheel is on there pretty stuckly, hope it doesn't bend or damage any parts while trying to force the wheel off though...:-(

if anyone has some first hand experience taking the wheel off without tools (steering wheel puller), let me know how you did it!

cheers

i didn't do my r33 one.. but in the r31 i remember it was a real bitch..

WD40 helped a fair bit.. then just got a big hammer and bashed from the other side a stack. Light taps and then big bashes. Took nearly 40 mins of bashing and swearing. I didn't really like what it was doing to the steering column either but seems to be fine.

Tends to mangle the old wheel though.

i had a bitch of a time trying to take my standard wheel off as well.... you just gotta give it a knock here and there to loosen and break the old glue.... keep giviing it hard yanks till you get it off.

but its all worth it when you get the MOMO on.... trust me :P

that guys for all your imput!

I finally got the wheel off today, after trying everything i/we could think of, I just started pulling really hard and pulled the wheel left then right and after a minute or so....wham, off it came. what a relief!

and yeah, the momo looks awesome. a little bit wierd driving with a smaller wheel, but better! :-)

cheers

I used a gear puller and it took me about 10 minutes to take my wheel off, turn my boss kit around so the wheel would be straight, and then put my wheel back on.

Having the right tools make it so easy. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...