Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I have a set of XD9's on my 33 currently.

Specs are as follows:

18x9" +30 offset rear

18x8" +30 offset front

I'm looking at purchasing a set with these specs:

18x10" +18 offset front and rear

I plan on having 255mm rear tyres, the fronts I don't mind stretching down to 225/235mm.
Currently my guards are rolled and ever so slightly flared (from the guard roll), but I understand and have measured that 10" will poke out approx 20mm from the guard, implying I will either have to raise the car or install a camber kit so I can have that slightly tyre tuck look, but would it be wise to potentially pump the guards? or flare them more?

EDIT: Mod can you please move this to the cosmetic/styling/respray section.

Kind Regards,

Serk

Edited by S3RK

Those are GTR offsets so would require decent guard work for them to fit, especially the fronts.

I have 10's on the back of mine with a 32 offset and I had to get my guards rolled, that is with a 265 tyre.

I would suggest 9.5's +20 at a maximum, even that would require rolled guards and a bit of camber.

i had 18 x 10 + 18 with 265 rubber all around. rolled guards with camber bushes on the front and camber arms on the rear. cant remember the camber specs but tyre wear wasnt as bad as i thought it would be. street tyres kumho's lasted 30000km including several track days. at maximum upwards suspension travel i could still just fit business cards between the guards and tyres. no inner guard liner on the front though. hope that helps

post-53232-0-51629100-1372970708_thumb.jpg

post-53232-0-24263600-1372970718_thumb.jpg

post-53232-0-63147300-1372970725_thumb.jpg

post-53232-0-60806300-1372970735_thumb.jpg

He's asked for this to be moved to the cosmetic section, so it's clear it doesn't matter how well it will work. Just what it looks like.

235s stretched onto 10s. Good grief.

Well it needs to work regardless, but I still want to tuck just a little bit of tyre. No need to assume things now...

I have 9.5 + 25 all round on my car rears is easy lip and roll 265 semi's no issues. Fronts I have bashed my guards out a lot, stretched them out as far as I could without heat or really butchering them. I gained probably 50-60mm never checked it with a contour gauge. With 4-4.5 degrees of neg camber they fit and work but without that camber a bit of stretch would be needed to clear properly. Maybe try a 265 35 on the rear and a 245 40 up front. A little bit if stretch will handle ok especially with a little bit of extra sidewall. Stretched 35's is not really a goer. 245 40 is about as small as I'd go on a 10. If you run anymore than 5 degrees castor you'll struggle even more. I run about 15mm spacers under my front guards at the front pushing the bar out too to gain just a bit more clearance for 6 odd degrees of castor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...