Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have just serviced it.

so will keep an eye out.

How quick is to quick to see some back in there? bearing in mind its only the smallest amount. its like just a bit of scum up the top when i serviced it after a bit over 5000kms>?

This is a very common issue with metal head gaskets when they have been installed dry (no hylomar spray), or if the head and block weren't surfaced exactly dead flat.

Provided your not leaking combustion gasses this is easy to fix.

Get yourself a cheap ass ebay radiator or an old second hand one. Fill the coolant system with water, bleed the air and go for a drive to get it up to temp.

Shut it down, and VERY CAREFULLY with a very big towel or rag, take the radiator cap off. Give the top radiator hose a few squeezes to get rid of some of the water.

Start the car and then empty a bottle of BAR'S Stop Leak (Cooling system sealer) into the radiator. (Lots of auto shops stock this stuff) Top up with water and put on your cap.

Drive the car like this for about 2-4 weeks. Then drain the water, flush the system through a couple more times with water (running it up to temp each time).

Last of all, swap back in your good radiator and fill with coolant.

As a precaution, it would be worthwhile having all your head studs torque settings checked too. This is a cam covers off only job, and is perhaps an hours work at most for a good mechanic. This is an overkill check though, as if something was loose you'd have nothing but combustion gas in your radiator. Not just a little oil.

Ah thats makes a bit of sense actually.

I ran my tuner, who also did the engine rebuild and he said he would be shocked if it had done the gasket or cracked a head etc.

He to said along the lines of when the gasket was installed there may have been something wrong etc. and they will check it out no charge for me and go from there

  • 2 weeks later...

Just an update.

Just got the car back yesturday.

All checked out fine.

Head was tested along with the head gasket both fine.

Had a compression test, come out excellent.

The cooler was leaking slightly but leaking oil OUT not in, but that has been fixed.

The little scum / oily film has been mainly put down to it being a new motor and during the rebuild may have got some in there along the lines.

So all in all, its all good. Flushed the radiator etc out for me to and topped up with coolent no charge, long story short im a happy man!

Just an update.

Just got the car back yesturday.

All checked out fine.

Head was tested along with the head gasket both fine.

Had a compression test, come out excellent.

The cooler was leaking slightly but leaking oil OUT not in, but that has been fixed.

The little scum / oily film has been mainly put down to it being a new motor and during the rebuild may have got some in there along the lines.

So all in all, its all good. Flushed the radiator etc out for me to and topped up with coolent no charge, long story short im a happy man!

good thing the hg wasnt changed for no good reason eh?

glad its worked out cheaply for you too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...