Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I decided to sell my R32 Skyline.

I bought it in October last year (2012) with the idea of it being a project car.

With having a 2 year old child plus another one on the way I'm finding it harder and harder to find time to do anything and i wanting to make a return to 2 wheels which i gave up to buy this.

I reckon i've put 1500-2000 klms on it since I bought it.

Since i've had it I've done the RWC which required a new windscreen, front rotors pads and tyres.

I fitted a set of DBA slotted rotors with QFM brake pads which for a 20+ year old car, pulls up better than my wife's brand new SV6 Wagon on even my brother brand new FPV GS!!!!

I have since fitted a set of 18 inch rims but still have the original R34 GT rims i bought it with.

Have also fitted a HID head light kit which has made a massive improvement over the originals.

It has a few performance mods but needs to be tuned for them all to work to full potential. Have recently discovered that it has a chipped ECU.

This is pretty much the original advertisement on this webiste i've copied and pasted over with some of the original pictures. and some new ones since i've fitted the new rims

xterior
Looks wise its fairly standard, has the factory type m skirts, rear pods and I have recently sprayed and fitted a genuine Gtr front bar. Also have fitted a rear lip from viva garage which is fairly unique and in my opinion looks great. Currently rolling on r34 gt stock wheels all round with good rubber. The car sits approximately 1" lower than stock height on bilstein shocks, nice and stiff ride but not to stiff for daily driving (height is still very roadworthy).

Interior
The interior is nice and clean for an 89 model with no cracks or bubbles in the dash, only let down is a tiny rip on the drivers seat. Only interior mods are a boost gauge sneakily installed where the drivers air vent should be which I still have. Also the factory head unit has been replaced with an alpine head unit with an iphone/ipod cable neatly tucked away.

Engine mods
Most of the engine mods have been professionally fitted by the previous owner which include an r34 op6 turbo, nismo 555cc injectors, z32 afm, hks pod, blitz return flow intercooler, splitfire coilpacks, 3" turbo back exhaust currently with twin drift pipes at rear but I have 3" blitz rear muffler to make it quieter. The engine bay appears completely standard due to the return flow cooler and hks pod being mounted inside the shell of a standard airbox. Have had a hwy patrol officer look over and did not pick a single thing out.

The car runs fine and appears healthy but is in need a tune as it runs very rich and has alot more power potential.
estimating power figures at around 165rwkw at the moment.

Have recently done a little service which included and oil and filter change using motal 4100 and installed new ngk copper spark plugs. An oil change has been completed every 5000km's by me since I have owned the car.


bad points
-rear guards have had the lips rolled for bigger wheels
-slight weep of power steering fluid coming from hicas lines but doesn't drip has been like this since I have owned the car (will not be a roadworthy issue)
-small scratch on rear bumper (hardly noticable)

$8,500 ono

Can be viewed in Healesville

Call Trav on 0438-217-644

post-103600-0-02376200-1374125098_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-01500800-1374125102_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-67087300-1374125105_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-15738900-1374125110_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-96171400-1374125112_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-33206400-1374125117_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-32503100-1374125318_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-33546100-1374125325_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-47026900-1374125332_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-96456300-1374125338_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-34612000-1374125345_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-06975900-1374125356_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-09392000-1374125365_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-59738100-1374125374_thumb.jpg

post-103600-0-04616400-1374125385_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428848-vic-1989-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys,

sorry for the late reply's. For some reason it hasn't been notifying me when someone has posted.

selcuk - Sorry dude, not interested in swaps at all. I will be looking to get back onto two wheels eventually but i'm very very picky on my bikes. And i've had alot of mates buy jetski's and piss them off at a big loss 12 months later.

Jack_Sky - yeah the'yre perfect actually. I've just copied and pasted the original ad from here and added what i needed to.

dropped price to $7,750.00

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...