Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

So recently I've connected up an wideband O2 with narrowband simulation (Innovate MTX-L). I'm currently using the narrowband output from the wideband and connected to the factory ECU deleting the existing factory narrowband sensor.

To my surprise, the motor isn't idling at stoich which is strange it averages around 12.7 A/F when warm.

There are no vacuum leaks, no vented catch cans or anything as such, and I believe the coolant temp sensor is working because when it's disconnected the car won't start.

No real biggie, as I will be getting a standalone soon enough, but just curious on why the factory ECU runs so damn rich on idle? On full song at 0.7bar it drops to 10.5 A/F which is expected of a stock ECU.

This is the first time I've put a wideband to analyse A/F on a factory ECU, so I'm curious to see if that's correct? I always thought it should be idling on stoich, and even on light throttle/cruise the A/Fs are averaging at 13.3.

I might try cleaning the AFM this weekend and see if that makes any difference (I highly doubt it).

Any other ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429151-r33-rb25det-running-rich-on-idle/
Share on other sites

are you getting these figures when the engine is cold or warm?

After a nice drive, thermostat is fully opened idle is at 650 rpm, I get about 12.7 A/F. On a cold start up I'm getting about 11.4 A/F. Like mentioned before, I'm not too concerned about it as I will be getting a new ECU soon enough.

Just more of a curious thing.

After a nice drive, thermostat is fully opened idle is at 650 rpm, I get about 12.7 A/F. On a cold start up I'm getting about 11.4 A/F. Like mentioned before, I'm not too concerned about it as I will be getting a new ECU soon enough.

Just more of a curious thing.

I can remember mine running rich with a stock ecu, used to puff out a little black smoke just reversing but was never a problem.

I'll try and disconnect the narrowband simulation to the ECU and see what it does. My original O2 was dead and was disconnected a few days after I bought the car due to idle hunts.

Instead of replacing a stock O2, I decided to for a wideband with narrowband simulation because I'm going to get a full standalone soon enough.

I'll try and recal the O2 too and see what's going on and also borrow my mate's handheld Innovate wideband and see what's going on.

Oh yeah and the sensor is mounted just before the Cat

Just for you Jonnie xxxooo

the wavy green is the o2 doing it thing, the spike is decal fuel cut.

Notice the lag between throttle V+ and RPM and LAFR, well that how long it takes for my Tech Edge to log what my foot is doing ;)

gallery_89296_5394_207220.jpg

that lag time isn't too bad!

anyways, just something interesting, took my car on the track yesterday and the consumption was hideous!! :yucky:

84kms per 25L

flat foot down the straight on wakefield and she was 10.1 A/F

On another note, I did an ECU error code check, got error 13 = water temp sensor..

explains why it's overly rich!

that lag time isn't too bad!

flat foot down the straight on wakefield and she was 10.1 A/F

On another note, I did an ECU error code check, got error 13 = water temp sensor..

explains why it's overly rich!

Had a feeling the temp sensor was reading incorrectly, 10:1 is fairly normal for the top right corner of the stock fuel map. I've started slowly taking fuel out of mine there, and it's still in the 10.xx:1 range. Put my new 440CC EV14 injectors in tomorrow so I expect my economy will be shite for a couple of week while I attempt a home tune.

Haha too easy, injectors in rough tune done, made it home ok, beer O'clock time :)

lol.. isn't really rocket science right? just as long as you're getting the right A/F you'll be sweet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...