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R34 neo rb25det complete minus turbo 80,000k good motor stealth black rocker covers

$1500

R33 rb25 det manual gearbox

Absolutely mint box

$1250

HKS Hiper D coilovers suit r32

$650

R32 4Door bodykit

-vertex front bars

New one $200

used needs work $100

-vertex side skirts

$250

-Vertex rear bar

(Cut to fit twin pipe exhaust

$200

R32 Gtr Alloy Bonnet

Has a dent on the front

Very fixable

$250

R33 extreme puk clutch

Brand new only bolted up to motor never used

$400 (paid $580)

Nismo gt pro 2 way diff

4.365 gears upgraded shafts

Painted housing

$850

Sieimans 650cc (107961) injectors

$200 for six

R33 front lower control arms

$150

HDI Boost gauge

$100

RB series screamer pipe (doesn't leak) custom front pipe to high flow cat,then to

Trust twin pipe exhaust system

$700

R33 front brakes

Calipers and rotors

$250

R32 passenger seat mint

$200

Genuine Nardi steering wheel

Bit worn but still good,boss and horn included

$150

R32 4 door vanquish

Roof spoiler new

$200

R32 front strut brace

$100

R32 rear strut brace

$100

R34 tailshaft

$100

S13/r32 adjustable rear toe arms

$100

R33 gearbox mount

$50

R32 gearbox mount

$50

Rb26 rocker covers (stock black)

Coilpack cover (blue needs paint)

Nitto clear cam cover

Rb26 cam gear backing plate

Everthing you need to bolt them to your rb20/rb25

$500for the lot firm ......

Rb26 hks intake pipes

And mushroom filters

$150......

17's Stock R34 Wheels

Tires Need Replacing)

$250

R33 BN rear bar

$100

Alpine type s

15inch subs x2

$500 pair or $250 ea

Part no... sws-15d2

R32 GTR Rear Sway Bar $100

S13 adjustable rear lower control arms $150

S13 Soild subframe bushes $100

R33 front and read strut braces

$75 each

S13 non hicas cradle with strengthening plates welded in

$150 needs paint

R33 crossover pipe with blitz blow off valve $100

R32 4 door shell

-s15 steering rack with lock spacers

-non hicas rear cradle

-plates welded to strengthen subframe

-alloy subframe risers

-painted in 2pak purple

-3 spare doors

-Just a rolling shell 70% complete still

-can still be registered

-needs paint

-was going to track it but have lost interest in it

-no bonnet,motor,box,seats,bodykit,

$2500

Located Mansfield park adelaide 5012

0431 391 262

Can't answer at work so txt is best or call after 5

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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