Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When driving, my car will drop a cylinder making it sound like a wrx which I'm sure is to do with my YJ coils I bought a year ago (just changed spark plugs and it's still doing it). The problem is that it only happens randomly as it can happen within 5 minutes of driving or 30 minutes of driving which makes it inconvenient. Is there any way you can tell if the coilpack is faulty by just looking at them? Perhaps driving around at night with the coilpack cover off and seeing if it shows spark? Any ideas?

Edit: If I pull over when it drops and start the car back up, it will return to normal

Edited by Dani Boi

Visual inspection of the coilpack will show up and cracks or carbon tracking across the outside, but given that they're only a year old, they probably haven't suffered the sort of age related failures that you can see.

Best bet is probably just to find a set of known good other coils and either swap them all out and see if the problem goes away, or keep swapping them out one at a time until the problem goes away. Whichever way you go about that you will end up swapping one coil at a time if you're trying to find which one is at fault.

My old RB20 used to drop a cylinder every so often and restarting it did fix it most of the time. And it was caused by a faulty coilpack. Swapped them out with a known good set and it never happened again.

take the cover off coil loom, drive the car until it starts missing, then disconnect each cyl one by one.

one of them you will notice that the engine sound will not change, that is the cyl that you are having issues with. remove the coil pack at a later date and check the loom, also check the injector connector for that cyl too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...